Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

Just finished installing trust turbos (T618Z)and everything is fine as in car starts, idles at right rpm.....had to get my exhaust extended from the trust front n dump pipe to the second half of exhaust about 30cm. Anyways got it done today and after driving it...and giving it abit it didnt feel like the turbos werent kicking in. Any suggestions or theories on what i can check why it isnt?

1)Some have theories have come to thought i used electrical tape to fatten up the wastegate nib so i could use the original silicone lines to the solonoid (could that be the cause of my vacuum leak?), i did use cable tie it tho.

2)My pod filters are pushed right up against the body of car (Could this restrict the amount of air flow??)

The car feels like NA car without the turbos.?

Any comments would be appreciated.thanks

hmm, not boosting?

they are pretty big turbos. id expect some lag. they should kik in by say 5k if not then there may be a problem with either the wastgate actuators (not put on) or a problem with the turbos them selves.

does it run airflow meters? or a map sensor ecu. im sure its something simple. it usaly is ;)

hmm, not boosting?

they are pretty big turbos. id expect some lag. they should kik in by say 5k if not then there may be a problem with either the wastgate actuators (not put on) or a problem with the turbos them selves.

does it run airflow meters? or a map sensor ecu. im sure its something simple. it usaly is ;)

yeah i took up too 8000...and yeah running z32 afm and AFC..with HKS EBC..and the turbos were near new..no shaft play etc..actuators are on..i unbolted the rear actuator one so i could get into some tight places to bolt on clamps but it has been bolted back on. i have tomei pon cams and adj cam gears.

Does the car revs??If the engine revs up to 3 grand then not rev anymore...then probably something to do with your force induction system which is the intercooler piping....

well it just my idea....have a try mate

Good luck

well im stumped. so weve got both actuators on, and holding tight.

if its got airflow meters, and runs fine but not boosting then its the turbos or a blocked exhaudt. thats all it could be. :) otherwise the car would run like shit under load if there was an air leak,

soo its on the exhaust side the problem ;)

i was thinking the same thing To4gtr ... that's why i said he should put a guage on it...

its behaving like a blocked cat

i just had the exhaust extended about 30cm from the trust front pipe and a new catco cat installed at same time, i do also have one of those butterfly valves installed as well but that didnt cause n issue with my other turbos.

what i did today was took everything off and made sure i tightened every clamp and used 2 cable ties for the vacuum hose on actuators...took it out for a drive tonite and it feels alot better than before but I thought it would pull alot harder with the bigger turbos?? i know i have to get it tuned again to get the fuel/air mixtures right, can feel the car start boosting at around 4k, the problem is it doesnt pull as hard?

would the cause also be if i got the 2 AFM looms mixed up?ie front loom is attached to rear turbo AFM n vice versa

You really need to SCREW boost into those turbos... 20psi+ to get the show to begin mate.

The 517's are bad enough, and you've chosen even bigger mumma's again :(

I suggest you get it tuned and said amounts of boost wound into it.

Then you should be on your way and it will feel better

the real problem is you ditched those beautiful HKS 2530s for some massive trust low mounts that are more suited to and RB30, or at least RB28 and even then best suited for drag. they will be laggy as hell on the street. :(

yep, as far as I know the 618s he went for are the biggest low mount you can fit on a pair of stock manifolds. well off the shelf anyway.

I think perhaps get a tune and then re-asses the problem. from what I remember you weren't too concerned with lag anyway, you were unhappy with the power made by the 2530s and wanted more. this should make more power, but will definately be a lot laggier.

yeah i think i may have solved the problem, the custom piping that was given to me wasnt the best fit n i had to wait for a bigger 3inch 45degree silicon coupler that arrived today, so i refitted everything again and too it for a drive and everything seems ok, it is laggier with boost kicking around 4k mark..have to get it tuned again.

Would getting it tuned again, as i got tomei cams/trust adjustable cam gears...would it bring boost on abit earlier with the 260 9.15mm lift cams? or would i need to go for larger cams?

I dont think you'll it any sooner mate regardless of what you do.

You have the biggest low-mounts on the market, and bush bearing to boot. Great top end they will have... low end and some mid range, they simply wont.

They will be nothing like the 2530's in terms of midrange/boost building.

bang!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

piss off the buterfly valve.

i remember wrxhoon (i think) haveing the SAME PROBLEM with the t04r setup. it was shuting with the incresed power. they are a stupid idea.

and also if its on bakwards it will be blowing shut lol

100% thats the pronblem :D

yeah i think i may have solved the problem, the custom piping that was given to me wasnt the best fit n i had to wait for a bigger 3inch 45degree silicon coupler that arrived today, so i refitted everything again and too it for a drive and everything seems ok, it is laggier with boost kicking around 4k mark..have to get it tuned again.

Would getting it tuned again, as i got tomei cams/trust adjustable cam gears...would it bring boost on abit earlier with the 260 9.15mm lift cams? or would i need to go for larger cams?

Ask a tuner if the d-jetro power fc will give you responce quicker....I am sure this is what the ecu is designed for.You will have responce alot earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...