Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I wouldn't use mobil 1. Yeh id go castrol. Dun get me wrong mobil 1 is good oil but not for turbocharged cars. Cleans all the crap outa ur engine but lets the turbo catch it. Well, thats wat i was told from the guy that got my new turbo for me. Ur choice though..

Hey,

I wouldn't use mobil 1. Yeh id go castrol. Dun get me wrong mobil 1 is good oil but not for turbocharged cars. Cleans all the crap outa ur engine but lets the turbo catch it. Well, thats wat i was told from the guy that got my new turbo for me. Ur choice though..

I guess the boys at Aston Martin, AMG etc who use Mobil 1 as their factory fill should run something else too then I take it?

the problem i see with mobil1 for skylines is that it is much thicker at temp than the recommended weight. the recommended is 7.5w30, and mobil1 is 5w50, so at operating temp it is 20 weight thicker.

Edited by mad082
I USE MOTUL 300 CHORNO V REALLY GOOD STUFF ITS 15 TO 50W IF YOU CAN AFFORT IT

BUT EDGE IS GOOD TO BUT PREFER MOTUL

Yeah my next change will be motul 10-40 i heard it is the best stuff and yes you do pay for it, im saving for it now, lol.

i just run HPR semi synthetic at the moment. but i change my oil every 5000kms. its 10w40, but i think i am going to go 5w30 on the next change. i do a bit of driving when the car is cold, and the pressure is a bit high till it warms up. but i'm not sure, since we are getting close to summer, and it has started to warm up. i think i am going to have to get a new clutch for the fan, and a new thermostat first.

the problem i see with mobil1 for skylines is that it is much thicker at temp than the recommended weight. the recommended is 7.5w30, and mobil1 is 5w50, so at operating temp it is 20 weight thicker.

No problems. Just buy the Mobil 1 0W40 or the 10W30 next time. Both are substantially thinner than the 5W50.

Dudes please try to keep the "which oil is good for my car?" threads to a min. I've stickied the main thread for communal reference. Cheers guys. Any dramas, send me a pm.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

Yeah my next change will be motul 10-40 i heard it is the best stuff and yes you do pay for it, im saving for it now, lol.

i heard the same thing, but i am not very happy with either turbolight 4100 or 300V 10w40, they are shit when the they are cold....the car runs like a pig, it never used to do it......so im gonna give the Castrol a try this time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
    • Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
×
×
  • Create New...