Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently, people have been going one of 2 routes with automatics.

First is to convert to manual.. easy to do as there are plenty of party lying around the import yards.

The other option is to beef up the auto slushbox and love it for what it is!

That's what this thread is about...

NO automatic haters

NO more wondering the potential of the automatic

So what i propose is that everyone with an automatic skyline post up your dyno figures and real 1/4 times (not g-tech figures!) and i'll collaborate the figures into the first post as much as i can... that way we can have an overview of how the auto stands on the track and what power is required to make different times..

Finally somewhere to compare auto figures, as most things you will see on SAU are for manual cars and don't 100% correlate with automatics...

So here we go:

rb20 - R31, R32, or cefiro.. stock = 100rwkw

DYNO

185rwkw - RB120WHY

179rwkw - AnFz

170rwkw - WazR32GTSt

165rwkw - RSTME

139rwkw - Nizmo_freek

1/4

11.08 @ 113mph - RB120WHY (with slicks)

14.6 @ 98mph - WazR32GTSt

15.0 @ 108mph - AnFz

rb25 - R33, R34, or Stagea..stock = 135rwkw

DYNO

317rwkw - dangerman4

255rwkw - Abo_Bob

244rwkw - lukits01

229rwkw - wildr33gtst

229rwkw - DivHunter

225rwkw - satantic

220rwkw - 4door_sleeper

203rwkw - pkblade

203rwkw - SECUR1TY

193rwkw - judd33

187rwkw - Haines

185rwkw - MacGuyver

181rwkw - Fly_with_sky

176rwkw - 666DAN

166rwkw - so_tred

160awkw - Tangles

160awkw - AlexCim

146rwkw - Basti

142rwkw - Howie

1/4

12.3 @ 113mph - Fastrotor

12.7 @ 106mph - Abo_Bob

13.0 @ 105mph- 4door_sleeper

13.0 @ ??mph - lukits01

13.5 @ 164km/h - judd33

13.7 @ 101mph - Haines

13.8 @ 101mph - SECUR1TY

14.2 - Alexcim

Hopefully a moderator can sticky this and it can be kept as a valuable resource and i will try to update weekly or even more often

Please try to refrain from general chit-chat, but feel free to discuss engine, suspension ,and trans mods that have been made to make the above times and figures ;)

cheers,

Warren

PS.. the only rules are:

- must be a nissan transmission

- must be original displacement motor

(basically an original car but modified..)

Edited by WazR32GTSt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131489-the-automatic-performance-thread/
Share on other sites

We kinda have one :P

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91916

Maybe ask buster to include "transmission" type into his format thingy?

As i know the cars on there are a mix of auto and manual

Ash,

i have a few isseus with that thread...

1) never updated

2) contains manual and auto figures

3) hard to find

i really want to separate the automatics and have a thread devoted to the slushbox so that all information can be correlated without bias

i have an auto and yes there is potential trust me i out run manual skylines with even afew mods while i'm running pretty much stock but as i'm not looking at big power n fast times i will be converting to manual becoz i miss the clutch lol...

any1 looking at fast times dont let the name auto fool u trust me u can get very fast times with autos

Heres my old cars results,i never got the chance to dyno it after the gtr fuel pump, R.I.P.S intake plenum and greddy profec B specII set to 13psi so i dont know what it wouldve been after those mods, have since sold it and bought a "MANUAL" r33 gts25t lol, the r32 went pretty good for an auto actually

1989 r32 gtst auto

standard everything apart from:

2.5"slipt dump pipe

full 3" exhaust

cheap as pod filter (no cold airbox or heatsheild)

600x300x76 FMIC with 2.5" piping

stock boost (11.2psi then drops to 9.2psi after 3500rpm)

139.7rwkw

jdyno.jpg

No track available near Adelaide atm - so no 1/4mile times

Stagea RS V Four, 86500kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

New Oxygen sensor & New 400amp battery

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Maltech front and rear stainless steel braided brake lines

DBA slotted front rotors

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch Dayz edition(?) cat-back exhaust system with quiet muffler

K&N pod filter

Cold Air Induction box with direct air feed

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 10 & 12psi

Apexi 'hybrid' front mount intercooler with custom dodgybrothers pipe kit

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

R34 GTT 17inch rims

Hankook K104 tyres, 235/45/17

160 all wheel KW @ 12psi

Soon to be added, most likely towards the end of the year:

MV Automatics auto transmission valve body upgrade

Hiflow turbocharger and a dyno retune, at 1bar

Expect 200 all wheel KW at 15psi - dont know what sort of 1/4 mile time that'd produce, probably 14's due to the weight of the Stagea.

:D Brendan

Edited by Tangles

keep those figures coming guys!

don't forget to sepcifically mention if you have any work done to your atuo as well as any engine mods

i personalyl have done to my trans:

- 2800rpm high-stall

- stage 2 shift kit

- trans cooler

although the first 2 were not in when i recorded the above figures..

I ran 15.01 @ 108mph. 60 ft was 3.0+. Very hard to get any wheel spin / momentum of the line

Car was making 179rwkw (untuned)

HR31 GTS-X

RB20DET Silvertop conversion

GT2871r @ 15psi

Walbro fuel pump

FMIC

Pod and steel intake

Adjustable fuel regulator

Auto is a VLT box with a foward pattern manual valve body with strengthened kevlar bands and planetary housing and gears....courtesy of KEAS

I don't think you ran 108mph mate.

I have run 12.7 @ 106 with 255rwkw.

I suspect that for some time now I have been getting more power on the dyno than on the road because I think a restriction is created once I lower my bonnet.

Auto has been fully rebuilt by Mike at MV Automatics in Adelaide. Uprated valvebody, kevlar bits and bigger servo's etc etc. Stall caonvertor is something like 1800 but the flash speed is the same as the stall speed. Normally the flash speed is lower.

Stock auto, panel filter, full zorst, 12psi

Same mods plus Powerplay ROM tune:

post-7957-1156404446.jpg

post-7957-1156404686.jpg

New tune, 480cc injectors, GCG highflow turbo, FMIC, blew the auto transmission at this point:

post-7957-1156404512.jpg

post-7957-1156404723.jpg

The engine was then rebuilt with Tomei type b Poncams and the below 255/256 dyno sheets are for this stage.

Timeslip

UAS dyno run 256rwkw

Bel Garage dyno run 255rwkw (same mods as UAS one)

Then I converted to manual for a bit of fun.

I don't think you ran 108mph mate.

I have run 12.7 @ 106 with 255rwkw.

I think I know what I ran. But having said that, perhaps I could say that you dont have a true 255rwkw. 1/4 mile times, dyno figures...they are all things we can measure, but sure as hell sometimes they cannot be accurate 100% of the time

I would say that my dyno reading is slightly low, as duty cycle on the injectors was reaching its limits as was the AFM...so I would expect peak power to be slightly higher.

Also I presume you have an RB25...your dyno graph shows a lot more power down low compared to how my turbo setup responds. I'll try to get a scan of mine up to show you what I mean :)

It pulls like a steam train in 2nd and 3rd....all power made medium to top end.

At a recent drag day, I was reeling in rexies mid track that were making 13sec passes. I always ran out of track though (800m might tell an interesting story!). So that figure I believe to be more or less accurate.

I think I know what I ran. But having said that, perhaps I could say that you dont have a true 255rwkw. 1/4 mile times, dyno figures...they are all things we can measure, but sure as hell sometimes they cannot be accurate 100% of the time

Abo Bob's problem is the dead spot between 3,250 rpm and 4,500 rpm, as can be seen in the UAS dyno graph. It is killing his ET and TS, hence not representative of his true 256 rwkw potential.

:P cheers :P

I think I know what I ran. But having said that, perhaps I could say that you dont have a true 255rwkw. 1/4 mile times, dyno figures...they are all things we can measure, but sure as hell sometimes they cannot be accurate 100% of the time

I would say that my dyno reading is slightly low, as duty cycle on the injectors was reaching its limits as was the AFM...so I would expect peak power to be slightly higher.

Also I presume you have an RB25...your dyno graph shows a lot more power down low compared to how my turbo setup responds. I'll try to get a scan of mine up to show you what I mean :)

It pulls like a steam train in 2nd and 3rd....all power made medium to top end.

At a recent drag day, I was reeling in rexies mid track that were making 13sec passes. I always ran out of track though (800m might tell an interesting story!). So that figure I believe to be more or less accurate.

Sorry mate didn't mean to be offensive. I just meant that 108mph sounded about 8-10mph too fast for the ET and power.

I might add that I'm hopeless at the quarter mile. Always have been.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...