Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Waz; *politely* S-A-T-A-N-I-C ;) Cheers Bro!

666DAN; would've been more; just need a nice boost controller or someone who knows how to use the Hybrid EBC properly :) then I should be closer to Abo's number!

  • 1 month later...

thought i would list my mods since i have an auto r33

Hks frount mount intercooler

3inch turbo back exhaust with metal hi flow cat

GCG hi flow turbo 450hp

Greddy profec A boost controller

Apexi Safc 2

Apexi Sitc

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Sard Fuel regulator

hks cam gear (not currently installed)

Standard injectors

Z32 AFM

Stock transmission just with tranny cooler

Mv Auto Shift kit (in the process of buying)

I Have had the car for 4 years have considered converting to manual but i have alway's liked the auto. I got car tuned a couple of weeks ago and got 196kw at the wheels before i maxed out my stock AFM on 10.5 pounds. Last week bought a Z32 afm and retuned the car and made 229rwkw on 14psi. but now worried about the transmission since i have already blown one and don't want to kill another so i am hoping the shift kit should be able to cope with the power alright.

It is yet to be run will go to calder when the Mv valve body is in.

wife's daily driver..

s1 r33 4 door

rb25det

acl forged pistons

eagle rods

Jun crank collar

N1 oil pump

new nissan water pump

ARP main, big end, and head studs

full nissan gasket set including head gasket

standard head

standard plenum

standard coilpacks

stainless low mount manifold

gt3582r-iw

custom 3 inch dump

full 3 inch stainless system

ASE FMIC

sard FPR

bosch 044 intank

apexi power fc

q45 AFM

custom 4 inch intake

nismo 550cc injectors

current power is 317kws

with ignition advance average around 18 - 19 degrees

i have been advised that if i drop the boost to say 20 - 22 psi and increase the ignition advance to 21-22 degrees the power should head up towards 330 - 340, without to much pinging.

but thats yet to be proven on my set up.

standard trans

mv stage 2 shift kit

large trans cooler.

post-24852-1162288014.jpg

Very nice mate ! Are you ever going to have a play with it on the strip ? Would be cool to see what mph it pulls !

What afr's it running top end ?

its near level on 12 afr once on boost.

im planning on dropping that down to about 11.5 afr then pumping some more ignition advance into her.

Hey i would love to stretch her legs down the strip but we dont have one.

bloody government over here are slack, and private enterprise is even worse.

Glad I found this thread... I will add my Datsun 120Y that has a RB20DET auto

Engine has

20thou forgies

Walbro + Bosch 044 & surge tank

GTR ingectors

Stock AFM just before the throttle body

3" exhaust

Garrett GT35R 0.63 exhaust

38mm Turbonetics external gate

Auto has

MV shift kit

MV manual shift controller

B&M pro ratchet shifter

4200 stall converter

trans cooler

185 kw

I could only find my 13.1 @ 113 timeslip from yesterday but it has done a 12.9 @ 113.

Best 60 foot is a 2.25

I use 205x50x16 Toyo R1-R and a 3.7 lsd diff.

I have been told I have the incorrect type of muffler fitted and i need a straight through design.... Damn restrictive V8 muffs.

post-24062-1162824263.jpg post-24062-1162824293.jpg post-24062-1162824441.jpg

Edited by RB120WHY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you really don't want to touch anything you can try to trigger off the timing loop just to see if it's sparking semi-regularly. Don't trust it for actual timing measurements.
    • Also replace the fuel filter aswell today
    • Hey everyone, I have a r34 GTT s1, im having a problem with my skyline, ive let the car sit in the garage for the last couple of months and havent run it and ive gone to fire her up today and it cranks but doesnt fire, i have been having problems with it previously where it wouldnt start again after driving it around for a bit. It use to start fine on cold start ups but if you drove to the petrol station and fueled it up and went to go start it again, it would just crank and not fire untill you let it rest for a few hours, the car doesn't over heat it sits perfectly in the middle while driving when warmed up. Im thinking this problem has caught up maybe and now it just wont start at all. The car runs on e85, ive checked the e85 seems to be fine. I can hear the fuel priming before you go to start it and checked all my fuses and relays. List of things I replaced today - New battery - New sparkplugs - New Coolant temp sensor I was thinking about testing the CAS but from what ive seen online, if the CAS is cooked, the car will actually start up but then die instantly? as mine just doesn't fire at all. Does anyone have any idea or have encountered the same problems? thanks
    • Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs.   Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving...  Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...  
    • When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages...   My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that!
×
×
  • Create New...