Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb120why...

is that an rb20?

and what gearbox?

nice results though mate

yeah mate... RB20 6 cylinders with the RB25 auto behind it. I guess im lucky and have a weight advantage against the skylines :P

The afm is now before the throttle body with a K&N filter on the turbo

post-24062-1162905551.jpg

The red button on the right dash is the overdrive switch

post-24062-1162905769.jpg

Edited by RB120WHY
nice mate :P

where did you get the automatic work done?

Auto is stock mate... Just the shift controller and shift kit from MV Automatics.

Shift kit dropped my times from 14.1 @ 103 to 13.3 @ 108 before i had the first tune done...This was the best mod i have done so far :( Im learning more about the car every day :(

I have been inspired to mod the R33 auto properly. Been buying up bits and doing the research.

So far the car is quite stock just a BATMBL split dump/front pipe and Fujitsubo catback.

Definate upgrades will be:

Splitfire coil packs (current ones are shagged, just need to put these in)

PRofec B Spec-II

Bosch 040 (stock one isn't keeping up as is)

Z32 AFM

Undecided upgrades:

E-Manage with all 3 harnesses vs SAFC2 + SITC (both around $600 solutions except that's brand new for E-Manage)

Slide vs GCG Hi-Flow (probably come down to cost meaning Slide, already have a spare turbo)

550cc injectors (if required, do I need a fuel reg then as well?)

FMIC vs R34 SMIC (the FMICs are getting so cheap and are supporting 300+rwkw why not get one?)

Probably forgetting something but you get the idea. Mechanic reckons it currently has ~135/140rwkw but couldn't safely do a power run with the fuel issues. Once everything is on don't really know what to expect, hopefully over 200rwkw, we'll see. Fingers crossed, cheque book out :happy:

scrap the emanage or safc

get a power fc and tune it properly.

wont work bla bla bla...

i have been running a power fc on my S1 r33 auto for 12 months with the standard trans without an issue

and 4 door sleeper has had a power fc for a couple of years.

Ditch the PowerFC idea too ... unless of course you don't like your auto and want it to blow up on you. How much power do you have dangerman4? How are you compensating for the ignition retardation each time the auto shifts gears?

mate,

ditch the z32 AFM idea and profec B idea and replace with FMIC kit (eg justjap) and turbutech boost controller..

then spend the rest on shift kit and high-stall and trans cooler :verymad:

Why would I replace the Z32 AFM with a FMIC when I am already going to get both? Especially when the standard AFM will most likely be maxed out.

I also want more than one boost setting and be able to do it from the cabin so yeah I've paid what $360 for the pleasure, it happens.

scrap the emanage or safc

get a power fc and tune it properly.

wont work bla bla bla...

i have been running a power fc on my S1 r33 auto for 12 months with the standard trans without an issue

and 4 door sleeper has had a power fc for a couple of years.

This is a possibility and there is the fact that PFCs are easy to sell so if it doesn't work out the loss isn't as bad.

oh no, please not the powerFC in an auto arguement again! there's a whole thread for that...

safe to say a remap is a great idea and is available for all models of skylines these days...

I wasn't aware that the R33 and R34s could now be remapped, afaik they can't be only the R32s.

Ditch the PowerFC idea too ... unless of course you don't like your auto and want it to blow up on you. How much power do you have dangerman4? How are you compensating for the ignition retardation each time the auto shifts gears?

That would be over 300rwkw, MV stage 2 shift kit and a large trans cooler as per his post.

Yes the shift logic is really good and it's a shame to get rid of it.

there's a guy in sydney who re-tunes R33's (do a search)

and i know mercury motorsport (www.mercurymotorsport.com.au) tune R34's so it can be done

when i said replace z32 with FMIC, i mean don't get a z32, use the standard one (it will work fine) and use the cash to get a FMIC kit

Interesting that the HKS F-CON removes the ignition retard for up shifts on autos.

Please explain?? I think I have that very problem, didn't realise it was normal, my gear changes are very laggy and feeels like the car forgets to change gears for a second.

Here's my details:

Hybrid FMIC

Pod Filter With Sheild and CAI

HKS EVC IV at 8.5 PSI

Stock Exhaust

SAFC2

160kW

------------------

Hybrid FMIC

Pod Filter With Sheild and CAI

HKS EVC IV at 11 PSI

Turbo Back Exhaust with Hi-FLow cat

SAFC2

180.5kW

post-11124-1163416451.jpg

post-11124-1163416476.jpg

post-11124-1163416501.jpg

Please explain?? I think I have that very problem, didn't realise it was normal, my gear changes are very laggy and feeels like the car forgets to change gears for a second.

Hmm

I'm not exactly sure what you mean. It does take a second (I think it is literally one full second) to change gear. One of the listed features on the F-CON is removing the ignition retard on upshifts when running with an auto. I am assuming this is an optional feature. This means running a F-CON with this feature on would mean that the most stressful (I assume) change on the auto box being the down shift when you plant the foot would still have that ignition retard and those under brakes. The subsequent up-shifts when accelerating would not have the ignition retard and just slam that sucker into gear, exactly what most of the 'can't run a PFC in an auto' crowd are so afraid of.

I wouldn't mind an F-CON except that no one in Vic can tune them and they are just as if not more expensive than a PFC.

I think you've mis-interpreted what the F-CON does with autos... it doesn't remove ignition retard; it actually imposes the ignition retard.

Have a read through some of SK's posts on Autos and ECUs - he stresses the importance of the ignition retard with autos.

I've got the F-CON V Pro installed; car shifts solidly and rapidliy. Mind you I'm running a fully rebuilt gearbox with a shift kit. Shifts are instantaneous when off throttle and takes about 0.5-1.0seconds when on throttle.

The directness of the changes is so good and sharp that there is quite a "thud" when I'm changing gears. Sounds like something is breaking :thumbsup:

I think you've mis-interpreted what the F-CON does with autos... it doesn't remove ignition retard; it actually imposes the ignition retard.

Have a read through some of SK's posts on Autos and ECUs - he stresses the importance of the ignition retard with autos.

I've got the F-CON V Pro installed; car shifts solidly and rapidliy. Mind you I'm running a fully rebuilt gearbox with a shift kit. Shifts are instantaneous when off throttle and takes about 0.5-1.0seconds when on throttle.

The directness of the changes is so good and sharp that there is quite a "thud" when I'm changing gears. Sounds like something is breaking :thumbsup:

Don't see how else this can be interpreted

A/T shift compensation

This function avoids the ignition from retard angle compensation when an up shift is performed in a car with an automatic transmission.

Hoever that is from the SZ maybe the V is different.

Edited by DivHunter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...