Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb120why...

is that an rb20?

and what gearbox?

nice results though mate

yeah mate... RB20 6 cylinders with the RB25 auto behind it. I guess im lucky and have a weight advantage against the skylines :P

The afm is now before the throttle body with a K&N filter on the turbo

post-24062-1162905551.jpg

The red button on the right dash is the overdrive switch

post-24062-1162905769.jpg

Edited by RB120WHY
nice mate :P

where did you get the automatic work done?

Auto is stock mate... Just the shift controller and shift kit from MV Automatics.

Shift kit dropped my times from 14.1 @ 103 to 13.3 @ 108 before i had the first tune done...This was the best mod i have done so far :( Im learning more about the car every day :(

I have been inspired to mod the R33 auto properly. Been buying up bits and doing the research.

So far the car is quite stock just a BATMBL split dump/front pipe and Fujitsubo catback.

Definate upgrades will be:

Splitfire coil packs (current ones are shagged, just need to put these in)

PRofec B Spec-II

Bosch 040 (stock one isn't keeping up as is)

Z32 AFM

Undecided upgrades:

E-Manage with all 3 harnesses vs SAFC2 + SITC (both around $600 solutions except that's brand new for E-Manage)

Slide vs GCG Hi-Flow (probably come down to cost meaning Slide, already have a spare turbo)

550cc injectors (if required, do I need a fuel reg then as well?)

FMIC vs R34 SMIC (the FMICs are getting so cheap and are supporting 300+rwkw why not get one?)

Probably forgetting something but you get the idea. Mechanic reckons it currently has ~135/140rwkw but couldn't safely do a power run with the fuel issues. Once everything is on don't really know what to expect, hopefully over 200rwkw, we'll see. Fingers crossed, cheque book out :happy:

scrap the emanage or safc

get a power fc and tune it properly.

wont work bla bla bla...

i have been running a power fc on my S1 r33 auto for 12 months with the standard trans without an issue

and 4 door sleeper has had a power fc for a couple of years.

Ditch the PowerFC idea too ... unless of course you don't like your auto and want it to blow up on you. How much power do you have dangerman4? How are you compensating for the ignition retardation each time the auto shifts gears?

mate,

ditch the z32 AFM idea and profec B idea and replace with FMIC kit (eg justjap) and turbutech boost controller..

then spend the rest on shift kit and high-stall and trans cooler :verymad:

Why would I replace the Z32 AFM with a FMIC when I am already going to get both? Especially when the standard AFM will most likely be maxed out.

I also want more than one boost setting and be able to do it from the cabin so yeah I've paid what $360 for the pleasure, it happens.

scrap the emanage or safc

get a power fc and tune it properly.

wont work bla bla bla...

i have been running a power fc on my S1 r33 auto for 12 months with the standard trans without an issue

and 4 door sleeper has had a power fc for a couple of years.

This is a possibility and there is the fact that PFCs are easy to sell so if it doesn't work out the loss isn't as bad.

oh no, please not the powerFC in an auto arguement again! there's a whole thread for that...

safe to say a remap is a great idea and is available for all models of skylines these days...

I wasn't aware that the R33 and R34s could now be remapped, afaik they can't be only the R32s.

Ditch the PowerFC idea too ... unless of course you don't like your auto and want it to blow up on you. How much power do you have dangerman4? How are you compensating for the ignition retardation each time the auto shifts gears?

That would be over 300rwkw, MV stage 2 shift kit and a large trans cooler as per his post.

Yes the shift logic is really good and it's a shame to get rid of it.

there's a guy in sydney who re-tunes R33's (do a search)

and i know mercury motorsport (www.mercurymotorsport.com.au) tune R34's so it can be done

when i said replace z32 with FMIC, i mean don't get a z32, use the standard one (it will work fine) and use the cash to get a FMIC kit

Interesting that the HKS F-CON removes the ignition retard for up shifts on autos.

Please explain?? I think I have that very problem, didn't realise it was normal, my gear changes are very laggy and feeels like the car forgets to change gears for a second.

Here's my details:

Hybrid FMIC

Pod Filter With Sheild and CAI

HKS EVC IV at 8.5 PSI

Stock Exhaust

SAFC2

160kW

------------------

Hybrid FMIC

Pod Filter With Sheild and CAI

HKS EVC IV at 11 PSI

Turbo Back Exhaust with Hi-FLow cat

SAFC2

180.5kW

post-11124-1163416451.jpg

post-11124-1163416476.jpg

post-11124-1163416501.jpg

Please explain?? I think I have that very problem, didn't realise it was normal, my gear changes are very laggy and feeels like the car forgets to change gears for a second.

Hmm

I'm not exactly sure what you mean. It does take a second (I think it is literally one full second) to change gear. One of the listed features on the F-CON is removing the ignition retard on upshifts when running with an auto. I am assuming this is an optional feature. This means running a F-CON with this feature on would mean that the most stressful (I assume) change on the auto box being the down shift when you plant the foot would still have that ignition retard and those under brakes. The subsequent up-shifts when accelerating would not have the ignition retard and just slam that sucker into gear, exactly what most of the 'can't run a PFC in an auto' crowd are so afraid of.

I wouldn't mind an F-CON except that no one in Vic can tune them and they are just as if not more expensive than a PFC.

I think you've mis-interpreted what the F-CON does with autos... it doesn't remove ignition retard; it actually imposes the ignition retard.

Have a read through some of SK's posts on Autos and ECUs - he stresses the importance of the ignition retard with autos.

I've got the F-CON V Pro installed; car shifts solidly and rapidliy. Mind you I'm running a fully rebuilt gearbox with a shift kit. Shifts are instantaneous when off throttle and takes about 0.5-1.0seconds when on throttle.

The directness of the changes is so good and sharp that there is quite a "thud" when I'm changing gears. Sounds like something is breaking :thumbsup:

I think you've mis-interpreted what the F-CON does with autos... it doesn't remove ignition retard; it actually imposes the ignition retard.

Have a read through some of SK's posts on Autos and ECUs - he stresses the importance of the ignition retard with autos.

I've got the F-CON V Pro installed; car shifts solidly and rapidliy. Mind you I'm running a fully rebuilt gearbox with a shift kit. Shifts are instantaneous when off throttle and takes about 0.5-1.0seconds when on throttle.

The directness of the changes is so good and sharp that there is quite a "thud" when I'm changing gears. Sounds like something is breaking :thumbsup:

Don't see how else this can be interpreted

A/T shift compensation

This function avoids the ignition from retard angle compensation when an up shift is performed in a car with an automatic transmission.

Hoever that is from the SZ maybe the V is different.

Edited by DivHunter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...