The Automatic Performance Thread

[Basti]

rb20 actuator (10psi)

3" turbo back with catco cat

pod

r34 SMIC

167.5rwkw

[Fastrotor]

Just a mini update. I have swapped out the 550cc nismos for a set of 740cc nismo's.

And the new LINK G4 Plugin has finally arrived and i installed it, with the aux cable as well for extra inputs. What a nice bit of gear.

I was previously running the LINK GTST Plugin, and this is so much better, finally all the features i want !

Throttle response is much better... something that was bothering me prior. Hopefully on dyno this saturday if its avail to me.

Still have to swap out the 040 bosch pump for a walbro. The bosch ran out of flow previously, so im going to try a genuine walbro to see how it goes. I measured the pump voltage first just to make sure the supply wasnt crook. (i have already earthed out the negative to bypass the switching). And volts were 13.6 odd.

I even pumped in 30 psi into the actuator to load the pump, and volts were stable.... so definately will change it this week.

Ok, stay tuned !

Gary

[Fastrotor]

Got onto dyno this sat to have a play. Found a few weird things with timing with the New G4 Link .... still looking into them.. however, as much as i tried, i could only get 257 RWKW (1417 N.M in 2nd gear) ..... so HKS manifold and proper .63 Turbonetic housing didn't do much.... Shame.....

Still think i have a problem..... yet to check cam timing to verify 100% there not a tooth out etc, and also , test the TIP (turbine inlet pressure), and the HKS now has a threaded hole at the collector to measure it..... to glean if the housing is simply out of puff...

The other variable is the auto/histall..... but a few others have made more on a very similar auto ... abeilt with bigger turbo...

Im very tempted to try to swap in a stock converter for a run..... just see what happens.

Anyway, running on link's internal map now , so using the 2.5bar link map sensor plugged into old MAF wiring (as used in GTST LINK) , for a second GP Pressure sensor, just need to T it into the turbo outlet to check full cooler and piping loss. Did i mention i love the new link G4 ???

Until next time !

Gary

[dangerman4]

why are you doing it in second?

wheel spin city....

[Fastrotor]

Just cause i can switch it into snow mode and then put the t-bar in 2nd and it never jumps out of 2nd.... you can floor it happily and load up against dyno before a run.

Yes the torque is getting pretty extreme though..... although it doesnt spin on the dyno. ! Hops up on the roller pretty decently though.... i should get a video.

So wheelspin out of the way, its just falling over. Once i measure the TIP pressure i'll make a decision from there.

Will try to get to drags soon. Charters Towers 1/8 mile social meet is on in 2 weeks... but then i'll do a full quarter run and see if its improved from best run.

740's are at 73% duty cycle, at 11.8 AFR.

Oh, and intially it felt like crap on the street, however, its the only known problem with the Vipec/LINK G4 , in that with the autos, the factory applies +12v to the tps SWITCH (for auto comp), whereas the Vipec/G4 only puts 5V....

So auto comp thinks car is at idle always and changes very early, and takes a while to go to first once stopped.... ie stop sign might see you taking off in 2nd !! Manual shifting got it lighting tyres again.... will rewire that wire when i get a chance

Gary

[Haines]

Gary

Its very wierd that both our cars are behaving like this

I havent been back on the dyno since I have fixed a boost leak

and I was also wondering if maybe the timing is out from when I did my 100thou service

consult shows my base timing at 5deg at idle but i haven't been able to check the physical timing yet

[Fastrotor]

I'll let you know if i find anything of course ! You going to towers ?

Where was the leak ? My pcv hose is split and needs replacing i noticed on sat.

Gary

Edited March 3, 2009 by Fastrotor

[Haines]

just on the hot side exit of the turbo at the 90deg bend

it was a bloody band clamp ,it had locked up on me and i thought it was really tight so i left it be

turns out it wasnt and was leaking pretty bad

which may explain why when we went from 14psi to 18 psi it would only go up by 2-4kws poor bloody turbo was working its ass of to make 18

it does drive different now with the boost fixed

way more responsive lol

[Fastrotor]

Good stuff Pete. I am going to bung the inlet and pump in 20 psi and check for leaks also, as this could be happening to me also. Might go the reverse way and do the same for the exhaust.

Gary

[jizza]

R34 GT-T (4 door)

3" turbo back exhaust (BOS importing split dump and hiflow cat, HKS silent cat-back)

Blitz LM fmic

Pod

11psi boost

Standard ECU tuned

198.9RWKW

[dangerman4]

Just cause i can switch it into snow mode and then put the t-bar in 2nd and it never jumps out of 2nd.... you can floor it happily and load up against dyno before a run.

Yes the torque is getting pretty extreme though..... although it doesnt spin on the dyno. ! Hops up on the roller pretty decently though.... i should get a video.

So wheelspin out of the way, its just falling over. Once i measure the TIP pressure i'll make a decision from there.

Will try to get to drags soon. Charters Towers 1/8 mile social meet is on in 2 weeks... but then i'll do a full quarter run and see if its improved from best run.

740's are at 73% duty cycle, at 11.8 AFR.

Oh, and intially it felt like crap on the street, however, its the only known problem with the Vipec/LINK G4 , in that with the autos, the factory applies +12v to the tps SWITCH (for auto comp), whereas the Vipec/G4 only puts 5V....

So auto comp thinks car is at idle always and changes very early, and takes a while to go to first once stopped.... ie stop sign might see you taking off in 2nd !! Manual shifting got it lighting tyres again.... will rewire that wire when i get a chance

Gary

Gary the magic brown plug fixes all

surely you have read my posts on the brown plug?

behind the drivers head light there are 3 eletrical plugs

when you disconect the brown one it locks the trans in 3rd.

so reverse onto the dyno, open bonnet, unplug brown connector, put in drive, and away you go in 3rd gear.

obviously it stalls up a bit cause your taking of in 3rd but it cant possibly kik back on you as its locked in.

so its easy to tune all the light load points as well.

Darren

[Fastrotor]

Ahh ok ... gee must have missed that one, either that or just forgot about it. I'll give it a shot next time im on there in a few weeks. I wonder how that affects the transmission line pressure at all ?

It makes sense as when researching the ecu (i built my own pcb to replace factory one) i did notice the 3rd shift is both outputs just off..... so hence why your trick works no doubt !

Thanks for the heads up, and yeah that will help with low down tuning.

Once i get my auto comp running, i'll just lock up the converter for low down.

Mike at MV reckons locking it once in 3rd is ok on strip..... so i guess on dyno wont hurt either...... be a good way to figure out how good/bad the converter efficiency is i reckon. Still im scared of smoking it !

thanks Darren

Gary

[2rismo]

280kW @ 19psi - 11.7 @ 121mph. Go the auto.

[Fastrotor]

Hey i thought you were manual 2rismo !! Nice, welcome to the club ! Will go quicker as is just not hitting the limiter.

What 60' was it doing ? Dyno sheet ? Hows the responce with the 1.00 A/R ??

Gary

Edited March 5, 2009 by Fastrotor

[satanic]

Just a quick one... not sure about the autos on the R33 but definitely on the R34; tuning should be done through 1st, 2nd and 3rd to get it precise, not just in 3rd. This was the case with mine, we initially just tuned it in 3rd and there were issues when under WOT in 1st and 2nd, took it back and weeded it out.

It'll be quite a time consuming thing to do as in 1st and 2nd WOT, the revs build rather quickly - but it'll be worth it to achieve a solidly smooth graph.

[2rismo]

Hey i thought you were manual 2rismo !! Nice, welcome to the club ! Will go quicker as is just not hitting the limiter.

What 60' was it doing ? Dyno sheet ? Hows the responce with the 1.00 A/R ??

Gary

No dyno sheet. Didn't bother to print one. I drove it off the line for the 11.7 so the sixty was a yawn-worthy 2.0 seconds. It weighed 3250lbs race weight so you can do the math if you like. The response of the 1.0 rear is fine with the big converter but there's a lot more to come.

[Fastrotor]

Stan, technically gearing shouldn't make a difference.... probably just couldn't get into areas of map in 3rd, whereas 1st and second got there..... This is where locking the converter up in 3rd would allow you to get to all the areas a manual could, without the humungous torque trying to break straps and such!

2rismo,

Oh ok, thought the launch looked abit soft for a transbrake ! Have you done a 60' with the TB ?

Is the converter a lockup one ?

[Basti]

disregard post

[Tangles]

mine's going back in a week for more finetuning

poncams want setting up a little more, got the intake injector setup and controller to perhaps go in along with some guages

did my oil and sparkies yesterday but will get the shop to flush the coolant when undoing the drive shaft

then do some tuning in 2nd gear hold and 3rd gear brown fuse trick

if we put on the extra fueling Im expecting ~235kw, so we'll see soon.

[2rismo]

Stan, technically gearing shouldn't make a difference.... probably just couldn't get into areas of map in 3rd, whereas 1st and second got there..... This is where locking the converter up in 3rd would allow you to get to all the areas a manual could, without the humungous torque trying to break straps and such!

2rismo,

Oh ok, thought the launch looked abit soft for a transbrake ! Have you done a 60' with the TB ?

Is the converter a lockup one ?

The converter is a 4k-ish TCE that locks up when it can. i could only get a few psi on the footbrake so it tool till 60' to come on song. I have only had one pass on the transbrake and lets just say the radials didn't like it. Even letting it go at 8psi. More refinement is required.