The Automatic Performance Thread

[Rolls]

Yeah on the strip the auto will always be preferable, Id say on a circuit the manual would be almost certainly preferable though. However I guess I was more asking about daily driving as that is what I assume you guys are using your cars mainly for.

[DR 32R]

Daily driving Sydney is just grid lock. I gave up driving on work Parramatta to Darlinghurst in last Fridays rain after 2 hours of trying to drive 30k, your average rb 26 would have melted by then, I was in a dsg diesel hatch. My other comment is mine was a factory auto, as cars get older the auto of the species is often tighter, neater and less abused, because such cars are less attractive to people like you! I have thought of manual conversion.

Edited July 24, 2011 by WHITE gtt

[jet_r31]

Not hating on automatics but just curious what draws you guys to them, apart from it being nicer in stop start traffic around town what makes you guys stick with them?

because they are f**k loads quicker than manuals with a good converter on streeters, and 10 times easier on the drivetrain, full boost all the time, no lag inbetween shifts,

basically feels like you are on a plane going down a runway with big power autos , the pull just builds and builds and builds absolutely seemlessy..you don't feel the shifts as the converter is slipping...awesome feeling

A good torque converter will hold the car on near peak power from throttle on... till redline when it finally locks up.

manuals feel really clunky and horrible after experiencing this!

cheers

darern

[jet_r31]

Interesting but I don't think it will be high enough, I think I'd need 3000rpm to get it on to boost (or put my 3L in the wagon heh)

Can you PM me what it cost to get that stall built? Cheers

Also, is the torque converter the same between R33 and R34?

doesn't work like that, you have to talk to a specialised in autos,HIGHLY preferably with turbo experience or they make a right f**k up of it

a 2800 rpm converter will go to 3500 easily once boost is applied, heck a 3500rpm converter will go to 6500rpm once it has any boost applied to it, A torque converter slips

the more torque applied to it, as boost go up, more torque is applied and the converter slips harder again . Converters are all rated for atmo motors.

cheers

darren

[Rolls]

Yeah it certainly does make staying on peak torque for longer a lot easier. I guess I just always found it difficult to flog through the hills/circuit with an auto, compression lock when shifting down, kicks out unexpectedly when it changes up around a corner etc.

Though for a purely street driven car I can see the appeal.

[jet_r31]

Yeah it certainly does make staying on peak torque for longer a lot easier. I guess I just always found it difficult to flog through the hills/circuit with an auto, compression lock when shifting down, kicks out unexpectedly when it changes up around a corner etc.

Though for a purely street driven car I can see the appeal.

it would only do that with a standard torque converter, woudn't happen with a modified larger one, and they are usually fully manualised anyway when built up, no drive at all

But yeh they have no engine braking, thats the big one, manuals will always be better in hills or on track

cheers

darren

[Captain Natro]

ok so after reading this thread from the start I'm starting to get a better idea of the auto hoodoovoodoo people talk of, nevertheless I'm still going to be persistant and stick by the auto mob .

ok, so the car is currently a natro 25 with an re5ro1a box but that can pretty much be ignored as it aparently those boxes are rubish.

so the end goal for the car will be high 200rwkw mark. and my orginal plan was to find an re4r01a box and use it. so the questions are:

will a simple shift kit (stage 2) handel this power

what sized stall is recomended (car is basically a weekend warrior so was tossing up between the 2800 and the 3500 stall converter, pros cons?)

what ecu is best suited or if it becomes fully manulised does this get rid of the problem this threads quite old so unsure on what has been developed since then.

as i live in se Queensland are there a reputable auto store i can simply drop the box at tell them what id like and have the work carried out.

finally the worst part, how much is this all going to cost me (roughly)

*car is a series 1 r33.

Thanks Nick

[scotty nm35]

ok so after reading this thread from the start I'm starting to get a better idea of the auto hoodoovoodoo people talk of, nevertheless I'm still going to be persistant and stick by the auto mob .

ok, so the car is currently a natro 25 with an re5ro1a box but that can pretty much be ignored as it aparently those boxes are rubish.

so the end goal for the car will be high 200rwkw mark. and my orginal plan was to find an re4r01a box and use it. so the questions are:

will a simple shift kit (stage 2) handel this power

what sized stall is recomended (car is basically a weekend warrior so was tossing up between the 2800 and the 3500 stall converter, pros cons?)

what ecu is best suited or if it becomes fully manulised does this get rid of the problem this threads quite old so unsure on what has been developed since then.

as i live in se Queensland are there a reputable auto store i can simply drop the box at tell them what id like and have the work carried out.

finally the worst part, how much is this all going to cost me (roughly)

*car is a series 1 r33.

Thanks Nick

I have an RE5, why is it inferior?

[Captain Natro]

just while reading through the thread someone said it was a weaker box...

[abr33]

I had an auto in mine, 260rwkw it was slipping bad, did 2000 kms on street and it went to auto heaven. I loved the auto but I do like the manual heaps more. The jatco arent a strong box iv been told and cost a lot to get built up. I was going to do a c4 auto fully manualised with transbrake and 4k stally but was going to cost 5k plus stally at another 1k.

[Captain Natro]

hmm

[WMDC35]

re5 same as re4 but has extra gear jammed on the back that's why the end housing is longer on re5

[Neo R34 GT-T]

I got a R34 GTT with following mods

Inter Cooler

HKS Electronic booster

Pod Filter

3 inch HKS exhaust

Everything else is stock and I get on dyno for 167 kw on 12psi .

I am planning on upgrading turbo, fuel system etc to get around 350kw .. has anyone done it before.

Edited June 10, 2012 by Neo R34 GT-T

[KiwiRS4T]

I got a R34 GTT with following mods

Inter Cooler

HKS Electronic booster

Pod Filter

3 inch HKS exhaust

Everything else is stock and I get on dyno for 167 kw on 12psi .

I am planning on upgrading turbo, fuel system etc to get around 350kw .. has anyone done it before.

Plenty of people have done it before - read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread above. 300kw is easy... the next 50 will take a bit more doing. Allegedly the auto can be rebuilt to handle that sort of power (e.g. MV Autos in Blackwood Adelaide - poss others) but I would be going manual with that sort of power.

[abr33]

Plenty of people have done it before - read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread above. 300kw is easy... the next 50 will take a bit more doing. Allegedly the auto can be rebuilt to handle that sort of power (e.g. MV Autos in Blackwood Adelaide - poss others) but I would be going manual with that sort of power.

+1, my auto at 140k old well maintained, lasted 2000kms of easy driving with the odd leadfoot appeal shat itself with 260kw

[tripsteady]

so do we have a general consensus that the emanage blue/ultimate is sufficient to tune the auto? (this is the biggest problem that i have , not many want to tune an auto)

other then fluid change , shift kit and trans cooler what else would I need for my auto to handle 220rwkw all day every day reliably?

[scotty nm35]

Emanage ultimate would be fine if you can find a tuner that is willing to tune it. With those mods you should be fine for 250kw in a daily.

[tripsteady]

Emanage ultimate would be fine if you can find a tuner that is willing to tune it. With those mods you should be fine for 250kw in a daily.

250??? wow, i was told by paden at unique automotive that the auto box will struggle to handle 230rwkw all day every day reliably..... but looking through this thread , that certainly seems feasible once mods for the tranny are done

[Plattsy]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405736-auto-fault-code-3-tps-short/

hey auto people. anyone help me out ^^^^^^^^^^^^

[scotty nm35]

Take it to Kewish in Dandenong, they know these Nissan boxes pretty well.