The Automatic Performance Thread

[Captain Natro]

thanks for the input. Why exactly am i so slow getting to 0-30km/h and the engine only really starts pulling hard to 100? Cant be that much turbo lag since its only a tiny turbo on the rb25

It's just a side effect of an auto transmission, without a big stall when you leave the line your only slightly above an idle rpm, look at a dyno graph and you'll see how much power (or more importantly torque) your making at a such low rpm. There's your reason why you 0-30 times are so slow

Bigger stall will increase 60 foot times dramatically, but not recommended for a street car as it makes daily commuting a pain in the neck...

Edited January 17, 2013 by Captain Natro

[scotty nm35]

The converter and turbo need to be matched to each other.

If you want skids, you need to tune the engine for response. The stock turbo and converter should allow wheelspin off the line if it's tuned and setup correctly. It won't happen if you highflow the turbo though.

[tripsteady]

one more ques , is it best to leave it in D as opposed to using the 1-2-3- to shift because it causes premature wear?

[abr33]

one more ques , is it best to leave it in D as opposed to using the 1-2-3- to shift because it causes premature wear?

Its bad to downshift hard on a stock auto, it does damage to the fins in the converter.

[#skyginer]

Though changing manually while in 'power' is better for the trans. Temperatures are generally kept lower when treated this way. But wide open throttle changes can stretch the bands.

A little food for thought

[tripsteady]

Though changing manually while in 'power' is better for the trans. Temperatures are generally kept lower when treated this way. But wide open throttle changes can stretch the bands.

A little food for thought

so...ok to shift except not at WOT

[Plattsy]

gents..... had a discussion with scotty about this and it got me thinkin....

who here has a stock turbo and box on an s1 33?

how hard is your change from 1st to second? and do you have a cooler in front of your radiator?

im starting to think im shift kitted already. cos first to second is pretty brutal...

[#skyginer]

My girlfriend has a 33 with stock box and turbo, full exh fmic 12psi etc.

Her car shifts nicely between 1-2 but still firm. Manual shift in 'power' and it breaks traction on 265s with coilovers. But even then the shifts are firm but still progressive, and it has a small trans cooler over to the drivers side infront of the radiator that looks stock

If it is like a jolt and almost instant then it is likely you have a shift kit.

Theres a video on youtube of a shift kitted 33 with a ratchet shifter for you to compare against

[MorganV]

Good day, to all.
I've read almost all posts in this thread, and understand that Nissan RE4ro1 transmission can holds much bigger than 500rwkw.
Could someone explain me please which exact upgrades does it need for that? (Try to wright to Mike from MV automatics, but he seems to be very busy).

Maybe someone knows which upgraded clutches and bands I should use for my transmission (RE4RO1B)? My target is not bigger then 520-550 rwHP.
There is not much information about Re4ro1B transmission upgrade that is why I’m trying to get any useful information.

In advance thank you all, who answered to my message..

[jet_r31]

second gear billet servo, upgraded valve body, new clutches..something like that

cheers

darren

[scotty nm35]

Best off getting an RE4RO3A from a 300z/patrol to bolt up and build that, much stronger internals and you can easily manualise it.

[StevenCJR31]

^^ do this! these trans can also be found in nissan cedric/cima. . Y31s and i think Y32s

[hypergear]

This is recent and yet interesting result sent in from a customer running a SS2 turbocharger with a R34 GTT Auto. It was used as a bolton replacement internally gated.

It has:

Blitz front mount return flow cooler

1000 cc injectors

255 pump JJr front pipe

Z32 AFM

Nistune

E85

Stock Auto with a transmission oil cooler

made 300rwkws @ 17psi of boost.

[tripsteady]

hi

I've got the following mods and am sitting at about 150rwkw :

1997 Skyline R33 GTS25T AUTO

Straight through 3'inch from turbo back

Pod filter

Blitz turnflow cooler

HDI Boost controller

stock turbo

Splitfire coilpacks

I'm planning to install a tranny cooler and hi flow the stock turbo at gcg.

Other then a fuel pump and injectors,what else would I need to do about 230rwkw?

What size injectors would I need? Reccommended brand ? (Saw the Nismo 550c but they are nearly a grand and am only chasing 230rwkw or so and dont want to invest that much in injectors)

Thanks in advance

CHeers

[tripsteady]

also , best transmission cooler to buy to extend the life of the transmission when I turn the power up?

[scotty nm35]

GCG, really? Did you research that one?

Bosch ev14's are the injector you need, go for the 1000's just incase you want more fuel down the track. Grab a Walbro 460L pump too if you haven't replaced it yet.

[tripsteady]

GCG, really? Did you research that one?

Bosch ev14's are the injector you need, go for the 1000's just in case you want more fuel down the track. Grab a Walbro 460L pump too if you haven't replaced it yet.

Aren't there disadvantages to getting such a high capacity flowing injector since my desired power level isnt that high as well. 1000 seems a bit excessive?

Yes ive researched and only heard good things about GCG turbo high flows. Have you heard otherwise?

Would I really need such a big capacity pump - looking at the usual Walbro GSS-342 (255lph) I don't ever plan on doing more then 230rwkw..if that)

What kind of transmission cooler is the easiest to fit but will be sufficient to keep the tranny living as long as possible at 230rwkw? ( ive seen craig davies ones , but not sure if they suit my purpose)

[scotty nm35]

The auto will suck 10% of the engine power on average so you need to aim higher than your goal.

What GCG highflow is it, the 3076 cartridge? Why not save 1k and get a more responsive Hypergear? Or just get a proper Garrett that will work as expected... Garrett bearings don't like high back pressure or exhaust heat as you would see stuffing them into mismatched stock housings.

The pump isn't something you want to do twice. Do it once with decent pump, wiring and a relay, it won't cost much more and will give you overhead flow for the next mods. 230kw won't feel fast for long.

Get the largest trans cooler you can, they are never big enough. I run a thermostat on mine to allow the gearbox to warm up quickly.

[steve200b]

Good day, to all.

I've read almost all posts in this thread, and understand that Nissan RE4ro1 transmission can holds much bigger than 500rwkw.

Could someone explain me please which exact upgrades does it need for that? (Try to wright to Mike from MV automatics, but he seems to be very busy).

Maybe someone knows which upgraded clutches and bands I should use for my transmission (RE4RO1B)? My target is not bigger then 520-550 rwHP.

There is not much information about Re4ro1B transmission upgrade that is why I’m trying to get any useful information.

In advance thank you all, who answered to my message..

Give them a call. I just had a Re401b built by MV full manual etc very nice job and reasonable price

[tripsteady]

The auto will suck 10% of the engine power on average so you need to aim higher than your goal.

What GCG highflow is it, the 3076 cartridge? Why not save 1k and get a more responsive Hypergear? Or just get a proper Garrett that will work as expected... Garrett bearings don't like high back pressure or exhaust heat as you would see stuffing them into mismatched stock housings.

The pump isn't something you want to do twice. Do it once with decent pump, wiring and a relay, it won't cost much more and will give you overhead flow for the next mods. 230kw won't feel fast for long.

Get the largest trans cooler you can, they are never big enough. I run a thermostat on mine to allow the gearbox to warm up quickly.

cheers