Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've taken out my rear previous suspension to fit some stock suspension in. Now taking out the coilovers was a breeze but getting the stockies in is proving HORRENDOUS! I just wanted to know if you're suppose to be pushing the hub down to allign the fork? When I say push I mean using ALOT of force/weight to get it down.

At the moment with the top of the strut in place with the two bolts on top slight done, the bottom of the strut (fork) is sitting way below the eye on the hub. To get them to 'line up' I had to pretty much stand on the hub to push it down and had to get someone to push the strut in place - does this sound abit extreme?

The force of the hub trying to spring back up is so hard that I can't properly allign the fork and eye at all now, so I can't get the bolt through completely.

Does something sound wrong here guys?

Cheers,

Andy

P.S This is on an R34 GTT.

Have you disconnected the front stabiliser bar? If not, then disconnect one link, doesn’t matter which one.

If it still won’t fit (not unusual) I use a long lever (1-2 metres) between the radius rod and the subframe. I push down on the lever with one foot and slip the shock eye over the bolt with my two hands. I have been known to sit on the lever rather than use a foot. A pinch bar works well as a lever, or a large piece of steel rod/bar. Don’t use a broom stick, they break and the wife gets upset.

:ninja: cheers :ninja:

like SK said.

i have also found that its much easier to jack the entire front or entire rear of the car up when dealing with suspension. rather than just 1 corner

or the entire car on axle stands if possible...

Cheers guys! Now this may be a stupid question, but from where do I jack the front end up? And where would I stick the jackstands? Do I have to do it one side at a time? i.e. jack left side up, stick in jack stand then do the right side?

Easiest spot to jeck the car is udner the tow hook at the front. Front engine subframe is also OK but can be hard to get at with some jacks. Stands should go under the engine subframe (not the chassis rails they can crush, and never the sump). If you get it high enough you can put a stand under both sides at once....all depends how big your jack is

I wouldnt be using the front tow hook ;)

I always try to use the engine subframe, if you cant get under it with a jack just drive the car up on some planks of wood :D

Edited by MintR33

its always going to be a strugle installing stock sus after having low coilovers in your car....same as installing coilovers after having stock sus. When i change my coilovers in the r32 i get a mate to stand on the hub and i slip the bolt in...very common practise

I wouldn't bother with undoing the stabliser bar if it's a stock one?

I've done it so many times on my car it's just not funny. I'm never happy with the suspensions. First time, it was a bitch. I needed a friend.

Now, I can do it myself. moving the hub is easy. If you need it moved up, just use the jack and push it slightly. I find I dont' even need the jack.

I just use my arm and push/pull it. It's dififcult, but i'm not that weak.

I wouldnt be using the front tow hook ;)

I always try to use the engine subframe, if you cant get under it with a jack just drive the car up on some planks of wood :P

(serious question)

Why wouldn't you use the tow hook?

Hi, if you are putting in the rear suspension then you may need to undo the bolts that hold the rear arms into the subframe &/or hubs.

These bolts are supposed to be tightened with the weight of the car on them, and now that you are changing the ride height they should ideally be retightened whilst the car is sitting at the new ride height.

The bushes in the arms torque when the suspension arms go up and down and changing the ride height will change the range of movement that arms go thru and will wear the bushes out quicker than necessary.

If you are planning on keeping the car for a while then its best to do it properly, bushes in hubs and subframes are Not cheap to replace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
×
×
  • Create New...