Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh hi since ive turbo'd my engine rb25de i put a drift oil breather on as shown in the picture!

the as u can see the blue'ish filter there use to be a hose leading the the stock airfilter piping...

since i turbo'd my engine i had nothing to put there other then this filter.

when i give my car a bit it seems pressure is building up and forcing oil out of the filter and yeh needs to be fixed asap. can anyone tell me what i can do to fix this problem?

Thanks heaps people!

post-28365-1156405139.jpg

Edited by Stealthynsa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131580-oil-problem-since-turbod/
Share on other sites

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

its not coming from the turbo oil line... its coming from the top of the engine where the filter is...

and oil catch can? what would this do to help me, i tried pluging it up once but then the pressure built up

and spat out of my dip stick...

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

so if i put this catch can on there wont it also over flow?

or does it drain back into the engine? what happens if this builds up with pressure?

btw thanks for ur help dude

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

how much is a compression test/ where would i go... and what do they do to test it, am i able to test it myself?

whats a atmo?

there is a fair bit of oil that comes out... it never happened untill turbo'd it.

and also when i give it a bit of a rev burnt smoke comes out of the filter would that be normal im guessing its burnt oil?

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

so by u saying a pipe goin back to my intake... u mean the 2.5" piping to the throttle body?

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

where is the atmo?

thats your inlet pipe.

intake is your air filter pipe. so it needs to lead to your turbo.

a catch can will seperate the oil from the air before it hits your engine though. thats its purpose.

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

read:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...%20can&st=0

this is a goodie:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20can&st=20

on the side of ur engine u have a oil return line from a step down at the fron of the rocket cover down the the bottom of i the engine... i T peice my turbo's oil return line in there... would this be why ther oil is coming up and spurting out? im saying would the oil+pressure from the turbo's oil return go back up through the oil return from the head and therefore come out my airfilter?

if you've T'd it into a pipe you KNOW to be an oil return pipe it shouldnt be a problem.

i know its an oil return from the head but what im saying since there is pressure coming from the turbo oil return would it head back up the oil return from the head causing the head to overflow and rid the oil out of my air filter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...