Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today i noticed my front LH light was out, so i changed the bulb, still didnt work, so i realised the fuse was blown, easy enough 20 cents later problem fixed

Driving home at night i noticed that the cluster backlight wasnt... well, backlit PROBLEM 1

Then i took the car in to the self wash and started vacuuming, i turned on the lights and noticed that on the first setting and nothing, no lights, then when i look at the back of the car, the rear lights arent on either? - PROBLEM 2

Then i put it on the last light option (the top one, u kno) and the front lights work, but the back lights aren't lit up.... ----BUT when i put my foot on the brakes, they work, but only when i have my foot down... so they do work, but there must be something up

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP

lol

maybe dimmer switch fault. or earth?

occasionally my GTR LH light goes out u tap it and it will work again. same with the LHF indicator. ??? bad earth..

the LH light is fine, its just those other two problems... the cluster backlight, and the rear brake lights... do these things have fuses? and where r they?

Headlight switch here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618

Your switch is stuffed as T04GTR said. There are three contacts within the switch. As you rotate the headlight dial on your dash, you change which terminals are touching the contacts, therefore changing the lights.

The contacts do not move in an incremental/accumulative way - that is, if the contact for the parkers/dimmer is stuffed, you can still switch to the next one and your headlights will come on. Think of it as though each time you click the dial, the switch is telling your lighting system to switch on/off. When you click to the next one, it send the next set of orders to your lights, but doesn't repeat the first set.

I know it's a weird explanation but that's where your problem lies.

Azza ring Just Jap in Sydney and they'll sell you a switch for ~$50. You can try fixing yourself too if you're keen on DIY.

And finally, there actually isn't a relay in the switch and therein lies the problem. The switches burn out due to excessive current melting the plastic pots within the switch. The only way around it is to rewire the switch to trigger a relay and use the relay to activate your lights.

Cheers dude! :D

  • 3 weeks later...
Headlight switch here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618

Your switch is stuffed as T04GTR said. There are three contacts within the switch. As you rotate the headlight dial on your dash, you change which terminals are touching the contacts, therefore changing the lights.

The contacts do not move in an incremental/accumulative way - that is, if the contact for the parkers/dimmer is stuffed, you can still switch to the next one and your headlights will come on. Think of it as though each time you click the dial, the switch is telling your lighting system to switch on/off. When you click to the next one, it send the next set of orders to your lights, but doesn't repeat the first set.

I know it's a weird explanation but that's where your problem lies.

Azza ring Just Jap in Sydney and they'll sell you a switch for ~$50. You can try fixing yourself too if you're keen on DIY.

And finally, there actually isn't a relay in the switch and therein lies the problem. The switches burn out due to excessive current melting the plastic pots within the switch. The only way around it is to rewire the switch to trigger a relay and use the relay to activate your lights.

Cheers dude! :)

just finished exams so i'll check this out for sure!!!

i owe u a beer regardless... i've noticed uve saved my ass on numerous occasions

thanks mate :cool:

just finished exams so i'll check this out for sure!!!

i owe u a beer regardless... i've noticed uve saved my ass on numerous occasions

thanks mate :cool:

lol i noticed ur in the blue mountains though errrr that'll be hard... how much is courier beer? hehehe

btw my folks used to have a farm house up in lithgow when i was a tike... u from around there?

lol i noticed ur in the blue mountains though errrr that'll be hard... how much is courier beer? hehehe

btw my folks used to have a farm house up in lithgow when i was a tike... u from around there?

lol another point

i was wondering..... my bro has an r32 gtst, would i be able to dismantle and take out his plug and swap it over wit mine to see if it works? are they the same plugs? hehe.. .yes i'm a tightass terry atm

cheers again

Sounds strange to me. Before you rush out and buy a new switch double check that the same fuse isnt blown again. All those things run on the same fuse. If there is a short somewhere it will continue to blow the fuse. The reason your brake lights work is because they aren't on the same circuit.

If your LH light was out, im assuming parker light, why would only one of them be out if the fuse was blown? The whole circuit would have failed, therefore all of lights on the same circuit wouldnt be working.

Then again it could be the switch.. You could test it for continuity.

Sounds strange to me. Before you rush out and buy a new switch double check that the same fuse isnt blown again. All those things run on the same fuse. If there is a short somewhere it will continue to blow the fuse. The reason your brake lights work is because they aren't on the same circuit.

If your LH light was out, im assuming parker light, why would only one of them be out if the fuse was blown? The whole circuit would have failed, therefore all of lights on the same circuit wouldnt be working.

Then again it could be the switch.. You could test it for continuity.

ah the front LH was out.... sorry should have just written LHF was out

i'm gonna go to the garage now and dismantle the baby... tinker with her a bit, n see wats up..

will bring the laptop with me if anyone else has ideas i'll still be online :(

CHEEEEERS big ears

lol another point

i was wondering..... my bro has an r32 gtst, would i be able to dismantle and take out his plug and swap it over wit mine to see if it works? are they the same plugs? hehe.. .yes i'm a tightass terry atm

cheers again

G'day Azza. Sorry mate, been out of town for a few weeks. Don't worry about the beers, cause I sure owe enough around the country :D I hope you sort the lights painlessly.

The switch is the same in all R32s, so swapping your bro's switch would be a cheap way to test it out. The switches are a well known cause for LH headlight failure. You can tell it is starting to go when you switch your lights on and only the RH comes on until you click on/off again or give it a hit Fonzie style.

As Deren said, good idea to check your fuses but I'd be surprised if any had blown.

Could you please report back when you've sussed it out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...