Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

he guys , latley ive been debating on wether to rebuild my rb20 or go the rb25 conversion. its been hard trying to find an rb25 with all the other things like gearboxes and turbos, all that shit. anywaz ive been told to rebuild the 20 and get the head flowed ect. ive got around 8 grand to play with and im in perth. wats the go with rebuilding rb20's . i want the car for the street daily driver and for abit of fun on the track aswell. any info of any kind would be appriciated

simon :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131626-rebuilding-a-rb20/
Share on other sites

stock bottom end is good for about 400hp but to be safe I would be changing to forged pistons. ROSS make custom pistons for the RB20DET and they will set you back around $1500 including rings.

I would definately consider the porting you mentioned as every little bit helps with the 20's. You should also have the rods resized to ensure correct fitment and lose the chances of spinning a bearing easily. 8 g's is not really going to satisfy the budget once you get right into it. You should do cams, injectors, AFM upgrades while you are at it and make sure you have a clutch that will do the job. The RB20 gearbox will not last long at 200rwkw so you should also budget for an RB25DET box and fit it at the same time.

8k you have to play with?

RB25 conversion mate.

If you had a larger turbo etc etc already i'd say stick with the RB20.

But its pretty standard, so any cash you spend it going to better you regardless.

IMO Rebuilding the 20 and then doing a turbo will cost you more than an RB25 conversion, keeping the stock turbo and getting a PowerFC or similar.

RB20 box will be fine with a stock RB25 without a drama, even upto (give or take) 250rwkw in my expirience.

And that will be under 8k quite easily without having to do the gearbox. Which could even allow you to get a larger turbo for the RB25 + injectors/AFM 6-12 months down the track if you save a tad more :)

  • 2 weeks later...

If you run good gearbox fluid, a sensible clutch and dont drive like you belong in a padded room then an RB20 box is fine up to 240-250rwks. It will go bang sooner or later, but my old thing is still tracking well after 180,000kms so its not unheard of. Some die straight after a power hike, so if it doesnt go in the first month or so you may be able to cheat death.

The big question is what are you wanting to do with the car and what can you so yourself?

8k is a lot of money. If your RB20 is happy at the moment, then i would grab a 2530, remapped ECU and be on your way for around $2500. Spend the rest of your money on big nights out and driving the car at the track with a good 210-220rwkws.

If you really want to spend the 8k, then its a lot of money if you can do things yourself, not a lot if your paying a workshop. You would be looking at around 3.5k for a mechanic to do the swap for you. You will need a Pfc and you will make around 200rwkws with a turbo that may go bag at any time.

So say 3.5k for work, 3k for engine and gearbox and driveshaft...it leaves you with a bit of money to play witha high flow turbo etc that will net you around 240rwkws.

RB25 is a good building block, but its a lot of money for that bit of extra low end grunt. RB20, well i wouldnt personally even crack the motor. Just throw a big turbo on it and go have a ball driving it. Be careful even with cams. I have ummed and arred so often with cams, but am concerned about losing even more grunt under 3,500rpm for that little bit of extra top end. I want cams more for the low to mid, and ppl have raised concern over me losing low end so havent bothered.

Which ever way you go, plan it well as you can, and get as many fixed price quotes as possible from ppl that have done it before and know what they are on about. You can do a turbo and ecu upgrade in 2 days. I can see an RB25 transplant taking 2 weeks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...