Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone using High-Flow, VG30, RB25 turbo or aftermarket turbo on RB20


Mr Rb20
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys, we use our R32 GTST for circuit racing, so it is never tuned for a single maximum horsepower number. The shape of the power curve is way more important for us.

If we had tuned it for max power only, I probably could have got another 10 to 15 rwkw more at the sacrifice of mid range and response, but the same would apply to the RB25 hi flowed turbo.

To answer the question it has;

adjustable cam pulleys

split pulse dump

3.5 " exhaust

R32 GTR intercooler

POD, hot shield, cold air feed

Power FC with boost controller

RB25 Hi flow turbo

electric fan

oil cooler

untouched internally, 170,000 kilometres

The main problem with the 2540 was its inefficiency at anything less than 1 bar and its related slow boost build rate. When we took it off the GTST, we bought a partner 2540 and put them on the GTR, after the 2530's they were a big disappointment. More lag same power, so the pair displayed basically the same problems as one did on the GTST. Ask anybody who has used 2540's and they will tell you the same thing. I believe that's why HKS have released the GTRS because the 2540 was not a successful progression from the 2530's.

Hope that helps clarify

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydneykid

RB20 turbo is a T25 size turbo with T3 flange.......right??

RB25 turbo is a T28 size with T3 flange..........right??

VG30 turbo is a T3 size turbo with T3 flange......... right??

(please correct me if im wrong)

so hiflo RB25 turbo is a balance between response and peak Kw??

wheres VG30 is laggy and mostly top end??

so can i expect around 200KW at da wheels with a rebuilt hifloed RB25 turbo?? (assuming all other mods done xhust FMIC etc)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is a guy on performanceforums who will hi-flo your turbo to T3/T4 specs for $1200 using all new parts. i have seen two (RB20) examples using a T3/T4 combo running deep into the 12's with stock internals, or around 300 rwhp(RB20lagwagon is one). there is also an R31 with a Vg30 turbs running 250rwhp and a 13.6 et'. from what others have said the Rb25 turbo has slightly less lag than the Vg but also less pwr potential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi guys, we use our R32 GTST for circuit racing, so it is never tuned for a single maximum horsepower number.  The shape of the power curve is way more important for us.

If we had tuned it for max power only, I probably could have got another 10 to 15 rwkw more at the sacrifice of mid range and response, but the same would apply to the RB25 hi flowed turbo.

To answer the question it has;

adjustable cam pulleys

split pulse dump

3.5 " exhaust

R32 GTR intercooler

POD, hot shield, cold air feed

Power FC with boost controller

RB25 Hi flow turbo

electric fan

oil cooler

untouched internally, 170,000 kilometres

The main problem with the 2540 was its inefficiency at anything less than 1 bar and its related slow boost build rate.  When we took it off the GTST, we bought a partner 2540 and put them on the GTR, after the 2530's they were a big disappointment.  More lag same power, so the pair displayed basically the same problems as one did on the GTST.  Ask anybody who has used 2540's and they will tell you the same thing.  I believe that's why HKS have released the GTRS because the 2540 was not a successful progression from the 2530's.

Hope that helps clarify

yeh? how is that. when RH9 made 404rwkw with pair of 2540s? and other people struggle to get 350rwkw out of 2530s. I know the spool factor. 2530s around 2500-2900 and 2540s around 3500-3800 with cam gears. But the power is there. It depends what your after drag/track. I think 2530's for track and 2540s for drag and bit of track? these figures on a Rb26dett.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry but boost on mine kicks in around 3800 and full boost by 4200 but i hardly notice anyways as i like to rev the car all the time lol also mine made 130rwks with the vg30 turbo and fmic, but i only ran 9psi and the fuel ratios were 9.8 to 1 sooo i rekon once its tuned properly and about 16psi i should be looking at an extra 25rwks+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dyno figures say more when you can tell me what your car measured before and after mods on the same dyno, and note gains as a percentage over factory.

This way we help negate the whole dyno losses etc, or at least lend transparency to the gains achieved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Works Auto

I tried something different by hi-flowing the stock rb20det turbo.

The result : Big top end flow , Minimal Lag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest GTS convert

I have an R31 GTS2 fitted with a RB20 Gibson Motorsport head &

extractors T30/40 Garrett 2 1/2" exhaust,big intercooler & pod,

porsche injectors,adjustable boost 7psi - 17psi.

Performance? Not sure of exact kw figures but,under 4000rpm,mild over 4000rpm AWESOME!!! I have driven powerful

cars including racing, so i know it's quick!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a series 1 R33 turbo on mine and it is quite good. Comes on only a little bit later than standard, but makes power all the way to redline. From memory the stocker used to run out of puff at about 5500. A friend has an r34 turbo on his, and it feels very similar to mine, but as well as the ceramic turbine wheel, they also have a plastic compressor wheel, which means no more than about 12psi apparantly. Both of these were a straight bolt up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi judd, you posted "RH9 made 404rwkw with pair of 2540s". So how much did it make on 2530's?

A direct comparison, not one engine versus another in different cars on different dynos. On the same engine dyno, same spec 2.6 litre engine with 2530's made 585 bhp and 2540's made 615 bhp. Way too much extra lag and poor response for 30 bhp.

We are about to do the same comparison on a 3.1 litre engine. Maybe the 2540's will be OK with an extra 500 cc's to spin them. But I'm not holding my breath.

Hi WazR32GTSt, take a look at www.gcg.com.au

Hope that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luke C,

How much boost you running on the series 1 R33 turbo ??

Any Problems ??

Is there a difference between Series 1 and Series 2 R33 turbos ??

How much boost can you run on a R33 turbo ??

Will i need to remap my ECU on my R32 to accomodate the R33 turbo ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry it took me a while to get back to you. I have been running 12psi with the occasional run at 14psi. It has been on there for nearly a year and so far no problems.

Series 1 R33 turbos have a ceramic turbine wheel with a steel compressor wheel, series 2 have the same as an R34 ie. ceramic turbine, plastic compressor.

As for how much boost they can run, everybody seems to have a different opinion on this, and since I have never broken one I can't really say. Apparently the R34 and R33 S2 turbos can not run as much boost as the S1 R33 because of the plastic wheel.

On my car I would not run more than 15 psi on a S1 R33 turbo or more than 13psi on an R34 or R33 S2 turbo.

I have not yet remapped my ECU, but this is probably not a good idea. I would definately recomend putting it on a dyno to check your air/fuel ratios, in which case you may as well get it remapped and get the extra power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...