Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I've been in a few SII 33's other than mine and each of them have different globes on the dash cluster working - that is the warning lights to the left and right of the speedo and tacho. Can someone please post a pic showing me what they all are.

Thanks

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131743-r33-series-ii-dash-lights/
Share on other sites

I'll write them down for you a bit later if you like...

Top left is fuel, orange. I remember cause I just filled up.

Under that somewhere is the handbrake light...

Fuel

Brake

Airbag

ABS? (not on mine)

post-3573-1156591106.jpg

post-3573-1156591147.jpg

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - | 2 - | 3 - | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - Traction off | 2 - HICAS off

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

Edited by RANDY

Yeah one on the right is a CAT symbol, my seat belt one is out bugger. One on the left is fuel and high beams is up top somerhwre I think. my AIR BAG light is out, bugger bugger =\ Anyone got a full set of working Lights?

How hard is it to pull the cluster out and fix these?

There's a thread on how to pull it out. Remove the dash surround like you're redoing the stereo, then you have two screws up the top of the clear plastic, and two under where the dash was removed.

unclip wiring, unscrew bulbs. From memory, some of them are LED's... I think the red ones are? Or maybe the orange ones? Still, you'll see when you get there, they're all standard stuff.

I'll update my post with the missing ones.

Bear in mind that the airbag light is only on for about 10 seconds after the ignition gets turned on. I took the photo immediately after turning the ignition on, so that it would light up for the shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...