Crank Pully Removal

[icydude]

Hey everyone,

I have the rad removed from my car and the head its ready to be removed. I am not wondering how i go about removing the crank pully.

all the belts are loose and now i just need to get the timing belt off.

I am aware that the bolt will be torqued to 340 ft/lbs.

Now what i need to know is what size is the head on the crank bolt and how to i stop the engine from rotating around.

Thanks

[SECURITY]

the usual way to get these bolts cracked is to have a breaker bar kind of wedged onto the ground and then cranking your motor. that will loosen the bolt. its 27mm from memory.. if not that its 24mm.

you could probably get a long breaker bar and lever it off. you can probably stop the engine from turning by sticking it into 1st. someone will correct me if im wrong.

[grigor]

4th not 1st.

[RANDY]

4th will be harder to crank because it's a taller gear, if you're using the engine-crank method, then 1st is the go. And only for one second.

After the bolt is off, you'll probably need to use a puller. There are two different types. One has arms that pull on the outer lip of the balancer, and the other uses the two spare holes in the balancer for leverage. Both use a big bolt that pushes into the centre where the nut was removed.

The first type actually broke my balancer in three places, the second one worked but was much harder to wind on.

[Duncan]

And if its already out of the car, 2 flywheel bolts back, a pry bar between wedged against the engine stand.

Then big socket, breaker bar and the longest strong pipe you can find over the end, those galvanised fence posts work a treat. Pull until bolt comes undone or socket breaks. If 1 sit down and have a beer, if 2 buy a new stronger socket

Once thats done you need a balancer puller to pull it off....bolt back in loosely, screw 3 bolts into the holes in the balancer and screw it off slowly.

After that is the timing belt gear which is the same again, a puller over the top and some patience.

[icydude]

thanks for the replys guys.

The bolt is not 27mm, i have tried that already.

its not much bigger so i was thinking a 28-30 mm

Also i have a meter and a half breaker bar to use

Edited August 26, 2006 by icydude

[grigor]

Randy, wake up.

4th is the correct gear.

1st loads up your countershaft etc and risks breaking the box, apart from being the wrong gear as you'll simply crank it through the brakes.

Think about it.

[blind_elk]

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

[icydude]

the bolt is a 30mm head

dont know how that happened but it is.

Also wont i have problems getting the pully back on with the tension of the timing belt?

[Godzilla32]

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Haha very funny. I was thinking the same. To replace the cam gears first install the inlet gear and fit belt then set belt on exhaust gear and work it accross until it slips onto the end of the cam shaft. Use patients and you will get there. The 2nd time i did mine thats how Geoff showed me to do it!

[SECURITY]

i think randy thinks it needs to be in gear to crank

i was talking about 2 different methods in my post.

its 4th if you're using a lever to crack the bolt. and NEUTRAL or (park if its an auto) to crank.

[32R]

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

GTR bolt is 30mm....

[icydude]

yup got that one solved

i will be trying tomorrow

[icydude]

ran into a slight problem.

i went to go put the m6x1.00 bolts into the crank pully and it turns out the last person who pulled the pully off broke a m6 bolt on in it.

so now i have one bolt hole.

What am i to do now?

i sure as hell do not want to removed my entire front end.

[SECURITY]

get easy-outs or use a different style puller - one that grabs onto the actual pulley wheel.

[RANDY]

yep yep... Dunno where I got that from! Thanks for being so harsh, grigor.

I certainly didn't have mine in any gear when I cranked the motor over.

The second time we pulled it off, we had it in 4th (as I said was correct, btw) and the breaker bar did it for us.

I guess i'll try and redeem myself from the 1st gear thing and add:

Unplug CAS when cranking over so the motor doesn't actually start. I know your motor is out of the car, but just incase someone tries this "in-car".

Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

Edited August 28, 2006 by RANDY

[grigor]

Hey I'm a cranky old fart.

When ever I see guys using the starter to remove the balancer bolt I go Ape.

There's a rough way and there's the correct way to do a job.

Like removing the master pins from crawler tracks with a jelignite gun.

It gets the job done but it's just plain stupid.

[SECURITY]

Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

yep. woodruff keys arent something you want to lose. there are 2 of them. put them somewhere safe.

[icydude]

There is one locator as the crank pully only has a location for one.

Also i used a 4 inch 3 arm puller and a can of wd40 and took my time and slowly pulled it off watching the rubber inside very very closely.

Also the crank bolt was not on tight at all, kind of scary how loose it was.

I removed it testing to see if the clutch would be holding then i slipped and cracked the bolt with a standard 1/2 inch socket

[icydude]

double post

Edited August 28, 2006 by icydude