Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if ur talkin about an electronic supercharger all it is is an electric fan that removes any negative pressure in the intake manifold and is apparently not as effective as they say although it will make some difference

they theoretically sound good... but are far far from it

There not even theoretically sound.

These things use a motor that has about 90% efficiency. Charging you battery is ~60% efficient (?). On top of that the alternator is 80-90% efficient and it takes power from the motor to start with. I'm just pulling numbers out of my ass but you get the idea.

ja matt i see your point, but this is when you start looking into practically... and the whole theoretically sound thing too deeply

they are "theoretically sound" as in that they are attempting (and quite badly i might add) to force more air into the intake...

they are theoretically sound otherwise idiots wouldnt be buying them would they?

we all on the same wavelength though.

1000 CFM at 2psi.

fairly restrictive warranty.

I could see it helping - if you have a 1.6L N/A econobox. A little more torque off the mark.

maybe it would help on a 1.8.... how much air does your engine suck at 2krpm? 3? 7?

waste of time on an engine that develops any sort of decent power, and as soon as you are moving, well, there is that extra load. don't forget electrical load is turned into mechanical resistence in the altenator.

Not saying I wouldn't buy one - I just don't happen to have an EFI 1.6 shopping trolley.

EDIT: spelling

Edited by ebola

I was reading an article on the popular science website where they tested a whole bunch of 'fuel saving' devices and they conluded that the best you can hope for is nothing will happen, one device even set the car on fire :happy: most just increased fuel consumption and decreased power.

I was reading an article on the popular science website where they tested a whole bunch of 'fuel saving' devices and they conluded that the best you can hope for is nothing will happen, one device even set the car on fire :/ most just increased fuel consumption and decreased power.

Car catches fire, you stop driving it. You stop driving it, the engine stops burning fuel.

System works as advertised. No refunds.

Car catches fire, you stop driving it. You stop driving it, the engine stops burning fuel.

System works as advertised. No refunds.

haha, i have been meaning to look into these heard a bit about them iv seen 1 in someones engine b4 not much i know about them. apart from what u guys already know. :(

guy at my work has one on a paseo 1.5. He said it definately does give more grunt but the fuel consumtion DID NOT get better, it got allot worse according to him. Apparently theres simlilar systems for motor bikes that iv heard some people rave about.but thats on a very small motor remember

my opinion on them is that they probably would add maybe 4 ish kw's of power at the wheels on a small motor NA car.Youd be able to only just feel the difference i rekn. I guess if your modding a small capacity NA with cheap bolt on uprgades for a little extra get up and go then it would be ok. On there website they do say that they " work best on smaller engines".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
    • No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.
    • Are there any other lighter flywheels that can be used with nismo coppermix twinplate system? Id like to gave the revs pick up faster than oem
×
×
  • Create New...