Jump to content
SAU Community

Factory Wiring.... R33

bygrave316

By bygrave316,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

bygrave316 Enthusiast

bygrave316

Posted
Posted

Need some help finding some info on the wiring for factory r33 setup....

but mine has the optional amp and stacker.

Im looking to upgrade the amp and headunit and remove the stacker as it has died (for the second time.)

hoping to find a wiring diagram from the amp and maybe the stack so that i might be able to use some of the factory wiring to install the new equipment.... ie use acc. ON power speakers running from the amp ect.

i have been able to find a fair bit about the factory head units wiring...

but nothing on the optional setup...

Any iteas ect would be great.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131808-factory-wiring-r33/
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Need some help finding some info on the wiring for factory r33 setup....

but mine has the optional amp and stacker.

Im looking to upgrade the amp and headunit and remove the stacker as it has died (for the second time.)

hoping to find a wiring diagram from the amp and maybe the stack so that i might be able to use some of the factory wiring to install the new equipment.... ie use acc. ON power speakers running from the amp ect.

i have been able to find a fair bit about the factory head units wiring...

but nothing on the optional setup...

Any iteas ect would be great.....

do you have the TV? (I take it this is also a sedan and not a coupe.)

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Well, for the amp and speaker wiring.. if you want to reuse the factory cables, it might be quicker to hook up a multimeter?

You should be able to find positive, negative, and then the remote wire when the ignition is on. Really though, you should run new power cables for your new amp, and maybe just use the remote wire. You'd probably have to adapt the input wires to RCA's for your new amp. Not sure how easy it would be to do that.

From there, you just need the speaker wiring. I think you could use the continuity mode of a multimeter to find each speaker. When you positive to one, and negative to the other (power off) the meter should beep. i.e find a wire with a stripe on it (negative) probe it with the negative meter lead and then probe the other wires until it beeps. Then you have one speaker's positive and negative narrowed down. After you have all four, hook them up one at a time to your new amp and find out which is right, left front etc.

As it's a good idea to run new power for the new amp, it's probably not a bad idea just to wire the rear speakers directly off the new amp... since they're just in the parcel shelf. The fronts, sure.. it's thin wire, but it's quicker and easier than running new cables through the cabin.(likewise with the remote wire)

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

ok that one isnt that bad. the speakers are found on the amp (all 4.) you should be able to ID these with a meter. the best approack would be a small 4ch amplifier in place of the original and run RCA cables to it.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Fair call, Chris. I didn't know this!

Do you know if he can reuse the input wiring off the amp? Is there anything that could be re-crimped onto RCA plugs?

If not, then you can only really reuse the front speaker wiring, and the remote wire. No point using the rear speaker wiring, because the speaker terminals are just above the amp.

If you have to run new RCA cables, yer might as well run a speaker wire for the remote signal at the same time. I ran that, and the front speaker wire to the front.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Fair call, Chris. I didn't know this!

Do you know if he can reuse the input wiring off the amp? Is there anything that could be re-crimped onto RCA plugs?

If not, then you can only really reuse the front speaker wiring, and the remote wire. No point using the rear speaker wiring, because the speaker terminals are just above the amp.

If you have to run new RCA cables, yer might as well run a speaker wire for the remote signal at the same time. I ran that, and the front speaker wire to the front.

the last one I did had a TV in it. same setup. everything was in the rear of the car. I pulled the lot out and ran RCA cables to the rear, added an amp and was done with it.

up to you for what you rerun. cabliing was there and it was a low buck job so I reused it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was ￡307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • sonicii
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By sonicii · Posted

      As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...