Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-3573-1156838225.jpgpost-3573-1156838235.jpg

post-3573-1158208103.jpg

I've flipped the outline image to match it with the dash pic.

Seems the Airbag light is LED, and the others are a combination of high and low wattage bulbs. I'm not sure how some of the incandescent globes change to red, but the "A" globes have the blue silicon caps on them.

A - High wattage incandescent globe with silicone cap.

B - High wattage incandescent globe. "WL" could be LED also?

C - Low wattage incandescent globe.

D - LED. Seems to be only for the airbag light? I guess you never want that one to fail?

E - Same as C?

R33 GTST

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - Blanked | 2 - HICAS

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

=================================

R33GTST w/Active Limited Slip Differential

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - SLIP | 2 - ALSD

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

=================================

R33GTS4

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - 4WD | 2 - SLIP (need to confirm 1/2)

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

=================================

R33 GTR

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - 4WD

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

=================================

R33 GTR V-Spec

Left:

1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

Top Center:

1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker

Bottom Center:

1 - 4WD | 2 - SLIP (need to confirm 1/2)

Right:

1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine

1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

=================================

Glossary:

Door Open

Air Bag - Failure or testing.

Fuel Low - Sender reports low fuel level.

ABS - Anti-skid Braking System failure or testing.

Hand Brake - (on R32 models, this can also mean that your brake fluid reservoir is low)

Left Blinker

High Beams - Not related to fog/spotlights.

Right Blinker

4WD - GTR/GTS4 4WD Attessa system failure or testing.

HICAS - Four wheel steering failure or testing

SLIP - Active LSD Traction Control on at testing and on when traction loss

ALSD - Active Limited Slip Differential failure or testing

Seat Belt - Drivers seatbelt only

Check Engine - Usually means an engine sensor is faulty.

Oil Low - Oil level low. Oil pressure is read from the oil pressure guage

Cat Temp High - Catalytic converter probe reading above normal temperatures.

Battery Low - Output voltage from alternator is lower than normal

I will update the others as I find out. If you know the missing ones, please advise!

Edited by RANDY

There is no "traction" light on the R33 gtst.

Also the GTSTML spec has SLIP and ALSD in the centre of the tacho

See here http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/mycar...SCF0009_JPG.jpg

Ah yeah... That might be for another model.

I saw the SLIP (traction) on my mates R33 GTS4... which is not a GTST, as you pointed out.

Where in the centre for the "L" version? Instead of HICAS and whatever my other blanked one is?

in between fuel low and handbrake is the ABS light.

the 1 to the left of the fuel low light is blank

so its actually

1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake

and the blanked off 1 next to the HICAS light is the 4WD light in the GTR

  • 2 months later...

4WD - GTR/GTS4 4WD Attessa system failure or testing.

HICAS - Rear wheel steering failure or testing

SLIP - Active LSD Traction Control on at testing and on when traction loss

ALSD - Active Limited Slip Differential failure or testing

GTST Active LSD model has SLIP and A-LSD lights in the centre

GTS4 version has SLIP and 4WD lights

GTR only has 4WD light

GTR Vspec has SLIP and 4WD lights

the normal r33 has viscous LSD

there was a limited build of the Active LSD model

which has the lights on the dash and the gtr differential

its the same as the vspec system

I can grab the same kind of image from FAST. It's just a matter of finding out the wattages and locations of all the bulbs and LED's. I'm sure the '32 owners would find it useful!

The number of threads i've seen where people ask "what does this light mean", "what would light up in this location", or "what kind of bulb goes here"... ;o)

Edited by RANDY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...