Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys... ok bear with me while i run this through..

ive had an overly annoying 'squeek' coming from somewhere in the rear for the past 3-4 months, its comes and goes, but sound at times my car sounds like a rickety old trailer at times.... its embarrasing the amount of looks it get...

i took the car to a large suspension related business (not mentioning the name) 2 weeks ago to finally fix the problem, and they said its to do with the adjustable rear camber arms that are fitted to the car, something about them not being fitted correctly by the previous owner... they fixed the problem, for a week....

i just jumped under the car to have another look myself and it appears all they did was smear the arm in some sort of lubricating grease to stop the squeek.. looks super sh!thouse...

im about to get new tyres, as the insides are very worn.. but i want to get the squeek and the obvious camber problem (see tyre pic) fixed before i get new tyres as i want them to last...

my 2 questions are:

Should (when the car is on the jack) the wheel move around at the carmber arm joint (pictured)? it has a couple of mm lateral movement when i push/pull the wheel, and is this related to the god awful noise?

jsut want to get it sorted, as i said, so i get rid of the noise and dont wear out my new tyres too fast.

i want to take the car somewhere with a good rep in melbourne to fix the prob once and for all, who can u recommend?

cheers

james

post-23423-1156901958.jpg

post-23423-1156902061.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132213-rear-camber-arms-tyre-wear/
Share on other sites

The wear pattern is more reminiscent of a toe-out problem than a camber problem.

The squeak is totally unrelated to the tyre wear. I agree, they did a pretty crappy job on the bush - it really needs to be disassembled and re-greased. It looks like a rose-jointed setup - could have worn a bit to produce the slackness you describe.

GT-R rims are about a +20 offset, IIRC, so the rim is sitting out 20 mm further than a comparable GTSt rim. That will load the bearings abnormally and may also contribute to the tyre wear. And may be putting extra pressure on the camber joint.

There should be virtually nothing to very very small amount of play in that camber adjustment. You might want to check its not the rose joint(spherical bearing), if the previous owner put them on and bought them second hand or has used the car extensively for drifting/circuit racing even with new ones they are probably worn and need replacing and that could be the noise and cause of the excessive tyre wear.

Some reading for you;

What is wrong with aftermarket arms

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical

R32GTST Group Buy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

:( cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

SK is right about rear camber arms. I got them because I didn't mind the downsides :)

Silicone grease is your friend - remove their muck (looks like it was done by someone who doesn't know where the lube is meant to go) and spray the rose joint. If it's worn as blind elk said that won't help, then remove them :blink: Otherwise I'd keep them till they stop working..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm keen for this content to 😂
    • Hi All, I'm based in Sydney and want to get hold of 4 stock R34 GTT wheel caps as pictured. Cheers
    • Haha im flattered! Although my poor boat is collecting dust in the garage, as it hasn’t been driven in like 6 months. I forgot the to put the trickle charger on too, so the battery is likely toast now.. I have the frenchys kit. It is fantastic. My only gripe was that the hard lines from the firewall needed some tweaking, however, this was mainly due to my specific turbo and dump combo. The weight and size packaging is much nicer too. I think I have some pics on my build thread somewhere.. my justification for the kit was more “why not” I had gone to the trouble to modernise just about every other part of the car..
    • Actually, ethanol has probably never been cheaper, on a tax free basis, than petrol. With fuel excise being what it is, and only being levied on the hydocarbon component, not the ethanol component, and ethanol for non-drinking purposes not being subject to liquor excise - E85 was cheaper, but not because the combustible liquid itself was particularly cheaper.
    • Maybe? If changing the cat to a higher flowing cat, caused the turbo to spool more quickly, and those areas of the map had not been tuned for the boost level it is now seeing, then yes you would need a re-tune. How dangerous it is running without the updated tune would depend on how far out the tune is with the now higher boost levels, how the engine protection has been setup, is the ECU compensating with a wideband sensor, is the boost control closed loop blah blah million other things... But yeah having said that, I wouldn't be surprised if changing out the cat for a high flow, in say a full 3" exhaust, made no noticeable difference at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...