Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is a R32 GTR harmonic balancer the same as 3.0Lt VL commodore or Aussi. skyline

Yes it should be.

The 20, 25, 26 and 30 are all the same but there was one difference in all of them and that was the power steering belt. Some used a 4 rib belt and some a 3. You have to make sure the balancer matches your application but even if the 30 has a 3 rib for the p/steer, you can still use a 3 rib belt on the 4 rib p/steer pulley.

The p/steer is the section on the balancer closest to the front of the car.

BTW when would you need a harmonic balancer?
^ anyone?

i hope these questions arent related.

i cant be 100% but EVERY engine has a harmonic balancer..

cant think of any that dont.

ATI lightweight balancer are for engines that are built for more revs than std.

a harmonic balancer balances the odd vibrations in the crankshaft caused by the explosions in the cylinders. a cranckshaft doesnt rotate perfectly if it wasnt balanced using a balancer it would rotate itself to shreds. the cracnk in a manual car is has to be balanced by a balancer due to clutch engagements and disengagements on the outher side of the crancnk which also causes odd virbrations

also its not a balancer, its a damper. It has nothing to do with the internal balancing of the engine components within. It simply sits on the end and absorbs harmonic vibrations and converts that energy into heat as its absorbs through the rubber rings that are within the hub.

A balancer implies that it is essential to have on the motor as the whole engine would be out of balance internally without it, a damper can be off the motor and it would still retain a 'balanced' state, however the shocks and vibrations would sure as shit kill everything.

I think alot of old style motors have true balancers eg. many v8's from the day.

Also you would most definetely need an aftermarket damper such as the ATI one when your are pushing the factory engine past its reliable redline, making obscene amounts of power or your into the serious drag racing thing.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...