Still Idling At 1,300rpm

[andy95'R33GTR]

i already tried turning the adjustment screw of the AAC and still no help.....im still reving 1300rpm! what will i do? i doubting there could be airleaks???? where could it possibly be????help =(

[blk180]

Not sure about your car but mine idles about the same. Shop thinks it idle temp controler

[andy95'R33GTR]

i observe in japan....this car is idle good...last january when it is cold season....so maybe the temperture of my country right???maybe...

[Dale FZ1]

I had fast idle issues after splitting plenum and throttle body while doing injector change.

Annoying, time consuming, but I removed and retensioned the plenum. Problem fixed.

Hard to give a worthwhile diagnosis if all you tell us is that the idle is fast.

More information please??

cheers

[GTR_Legend]

i observe in japan....this car is idle good...last january when it is cold season....so maybe the temperture of my country right???maybe...

i was going to check the aac again as mine (once warm) will rev at 1000-1300 every now and then and i just tap the accel to stop it!

[Cool Hand Luke]

i had the same problem. turned out to be a vacuum leak.

[LatinR33]

I had a problem similar to this, wherer the idle would rise to like 1200 + ended up being the TPS.

[blind_elk]

Check the adjustment of the TPS

[tridentt150v]

Check the afm is clean too!

[SLIPPERY]

spray a fine mist of water towards the throttles with a spray bottle when the car is idling and see if the motor chokes and drops revs for a second. If so, then you know youve got an inlet manifold leak.

Edited August 31, 2006 by SLIPPERY

[cowie165]

Check the adjustment of the TPS

My TPS output at idle is 0.41V

Is that about right? Is that what most of you guys see?

[SECURITY]

there is an idle adjustment screw on the ecu. but the TPS would most likley be the one thats been fiddled with.

[blind_elk]

My TPS output at idle is 0.41V

Is that about right? Is that what most of you guys see?

It's really not a matter of volts, it's a matter of resistance. The (other) TPS (the throttle position SWITCH) needs to have 0 ohms between 2 pins (2 & 3, I think) - this tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and the ECU needs to run with the idle maps.

You can initially test this by manually revving the engine, then allow the throttle to snap shut. This should cause the ECU to go into "fuel cut on overrun" (the injectors shut down); so you should hear it go quiet in the injector department for a short period.

[andy95'R33GTR]

where is the TPS located??thanx

[SECURITY]

its on the front side of the throttle body, you'll see a little black thing with 2x 7mm bolts on it (one on the top, one on the bottom). it adjusts clock wise and anti-clock wise. id recommend getting this done by a mechanic as you could lose power if you adjust it wrong (making your throttle open less than 100% at WOT).

are you sure its not your CAS (long shot, but still possible)? get your timing checked out.

[chrissso]

Have you check all the vacuum hoses connecting to the plenum?

[psybic]

This is happening on my car. Its happened to me on previous cars.

3SGTE - ( It was REALLY bad, even started hunting after I fiddled ), was fixed with after market ECU.

2JZGE - Never worried, but never fixed it.

SR20DET - Wasn't too bad, but again, the after market ECU made it idle spot on.

RB25DET - Sounds similar to what you say.

So its hard to say what worked for me, as each time the after market ECU install and tune dealt with all of the above ideas.. I guess it could be any of them, TPS, CAS, Vacuum leak ( or dirty AFM ), so check them all...

My RB25 is also popping and missing at high RPM in first gear at the moment (not heaps high, anything over 5) but isn't so bad in 2nd... I wonder if its related to the high idle issue.