Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I've got an r32 gtr thats currently idling at 1200rpm, sometimes 1000 when its warmer... its not rough idling, or fluctuating rapidly... I wanna reduce it to around 800rpm... how do i do this? I heard there's a manual way of reducing ur idle revs by turning something in the engine bay... but have no clue? Whats the deal?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132438-gtr-idling/
Share on other sites

R32 GTR idles a 950 rpm, usually, but does rise when first starting the engine.

Mines got a manifold gasket leak so its idling at 1050-1100 rpm, maybe check that out before u go changing the idle on something that could be something else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132438-gtr-idling/#findComment-2453729
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next pic will probably bring back Charlie's PTSD So yes, pump is back out. I hooked the fuel return up to a hose into a container to flush out the first litre or 2, jumped the Fuel Pump relay and.......nothing.... Turns out the pump I had pulled out, checked, cleaned everything....was dead.  I hadn't actually hooked 12v to it to check it worked before I put it back in. Anyway...Neil had kept the old pump which still worked, so I just swapped it back in. All good, flushed the lines out, ready to start
    • OK....so something that works like it said on the tin! Fitting the pressure feed into the car was an absolute PITA because the oil filter is in the standard location and then there is a fitting to run to the oil cooler. On the other side between the filter and the steering box is the standard oil pressure sender (not working for some reason, something to check) and 2 tapped 1/8 BSP threads for the oil temp and pressure gauges. Unfortunately it is really tight in there and it took a hours of stuffing around to get a t fitting to connect the priming pump and retain the gauge sender.  Also, the Aeroflow sump has some massive drain plug (needs a 32mm spanner) so I couldn't use the regular fitting there either. In any case....once it was all hooked up, like magic priming.mp4 15 sec, 3 bar of oil pressure. Left it running a couple of minutes to push through everything, looked good   
    • Yeah the latest style kit has been trouble free, I've done a fair few klm on it including pushing a bit on low fuel and it hasn't been surging (that's not an endorsement for race use, I haven't tried that low, or that hard cornering!). For street use it has been a good thing, handles the high current OK, only real issue is it is not cheap
    • So, how do you feel about the Frenchys surge tank setup @Duncan? Have you had a chance to try it out more? The sketchy wiring in my fuel pump setup has decided to melt and die and I'm looking for a solid replacement now. My fuel hat is toast so the Frenchys kits providing it all look promising.
    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
×
×
  • Create New...