Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering if i've had my chain pulled here.

I recently just put a nice Stereo in my R33 Skyline, Unfortunately there is noise coming through the speakers. I corrected this through a Ground Loop Isolater (Headunit -> Isolator -> Amp via RCA).

Whilst looking for one, i was advised by a car audio place that my amp should already clean this up, however the guy who did the install (and is held in reasonable regard around here according to a SAU ACT member) mentioned that it was a particular problem with R33's and BA Falcons.

Who is telling the truth? should my Cadence FX500 5 channel amp filter it out? or are R33's a noisy bugger and require more?

Is there a better (and cleaner sounding) solution than the $15 part i bought from AutoBarn?

Cheers,

Geoff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132518-ground-loop-isolators-amps/
Share on other sites

Hey,

Just wondering if i've had my chain pulled here.

I recently just put a nice Stereo in my R33 Skyline, Unfortunately there is noise coming through the speakers. I corrected this through a Ground Loop Isolater (Headunit -> Isolator -> Amp via RCA).

Whilst looking for one, i was advised by a car audio place that my amp should already clean this up, however the guy who did the install (and is held in reasonable regard around here according to a SAU ACT member) mentioned that it was a particular problem with R33's and BA Falcons.

Who is telling the truth? should my Cadence FX500 5 channel amp filter it out? or are R33's a noisy bugger and require more?

Is there a better (and cleaner sounding) solution than the $15 part i bought from AutoBarn?

Cheers,

Geoff

both are VERY noisy cars - though if you do the wiring correctly that wont be a problem. what you have is a quick fix and works. it will also roll the VERY low bass off quite sharply.

so of the amplifiers have better input stages than others but to my knowledge none of them have inbuilt RCA chokes. (on th PSU they do.)

both are VERY noisy cars - though if you do the wiring correctly that wont be a problem. what you have is a quick fix and works. it will also roll the VERY low bass off quite sharply.

so of the amplifiers have better input stages than others but to my knowledge none of them have inbuilt RCA chokes. (on th PSU they do.)

What would your suggestion be to rectifiy this?

I only have the Ground loop Isolator on the Front/Rear Channels atm, the Sub is unfiltered.

could be your head unit.

i had a really bad alternator whine when i put my stereo in a while ago (pioneer HU, Alpine splits and 6*9's and cadence 4 channel) tried every thing to get rid of it in the end sold the pinoneer HU and brought a good Alpine one and the noise was gone don't know why ?? but i;m happy

Edited by Spook33
could be your head unit.

i had a really bad alternator whine when i put my stereo in a while ago (pioneer HU, Alpine splits and 6*9's and cadence 4 channel) tried every thing to get rid of it in the end sold the pinoneer HU and brought a good Alpine one and the noise was gone don't know why ?? but i;m happy

I just spent ~2100 on the stereo, the head unit is a middle-ish range JVC KD-G725 unit. I'm quite attached to the USB input to be honest, if i can get the noise filtered properly, i will do magical star jumps.

What would your suggestion be to rectifiy this?

I only have the Ground loop Isolator on the Front/Rear Channels atm, the Sub is unfiltered.

if you can pull the rears off and stick a shorting plug in place then move the isolator to the sub channel as a temp measure. if it works buy another one. to do it properly would require a TOTAL strip and rework.

could be your head unit.

i had a really bad alternator whine when i put my stereo in a while ago (pioneer HU, Alpine splits and 6*9's and cadence 4 channel) tried every thing to get rid of it in the end sold the pinoneer HU and brought a good Alpine one and the noise was gone don't know why ?? but i;m happy

unlikely but possible. only way it could do this would be if the amplifier earth was loose. that in turn would destroy the earth tracks on the unit.

try what I suggested first.

  • 3 weeks later...

JVC deck actually.

that being said.

the problem is intermittent. I can't put my finger on how to get it to make the noise.

Example. Roughly about 23-24 on the volume will be enough to drown out all but 5000 - 7000 rpm of exhaust engine noise.

When it is behaving, i will not hear the whine after about 4 (very quiet) - sometimes i can't hear it at 0.

When its usually being annoying, i will hear it till about 14.

When its absolutely f**ked i will hear it till 27 - 28.

I have a Stinger GLI, should i get that earthed (the shell) as well? The system sounds awesome, its just that when its playing the whine - i just turn it off because it makes my head want to explode.

Edited by nsanity

My mum had this problem in her car. i rewired it to make sure the rca's where away from the power cables, that didnt make any difference. Then my dad played around with it and he had it unmounted and it wasn't doing it, in other words the metal body of the car wasnt touching the metal body of the amp and that fixed it. We ended up using velcro and mounting it to the carpet.

Good luck

you dont have a pioneer deck do you? they absolutely hate skylines!! if you have pioneer its your problem

Huh? I just installed my Pioneer deck with no noise or problems at all. Completely new wiring and all. Don't know what you're talking about. >_<

i have found an easy solution which should work, which is quite simple, simply attach a small wire to the rca's where they plug into the amp, if your not sure what i mean, the lil metal tip which goes in her hole!! then ground them, does not seem to matter if they all grounded together, solved my problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...