Jump to content
SAU Community

Jaycar Boost Controller,Fuel Adjuster,Turbo Timer


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 236
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a fuel adjuster kit from one of the FIRST group buys on these..

i had the hand controller and ebc together.. neva got them to work..... dunno where they went....probably threw em out.

anyways.....

fuel adjuster kit .... hasnt been opend. but i'll check.

50bucks plus 5bucks post.

pm me. thanks

*free bump*

Matt

i have a fuel adjuster kit from one of the FIRST group buys on these..
shouldn't be a problem. ATM I only have a request for 2 DFA's and it makes no difference to the price of the group buy if there's 1 or 2 in the order.

PM's with payment details and totals sent to:

TurboX

aaron_whittle

shoei

ducki

blindsay

Mr Void

Hootchy

and Blitz_boy

Just to clarify, please allow the extra postage amount on top of the total I gave you if you want me to send them out to you by mail.

Another quick reminder, if you need the items shipped to you, please PM me a mailing address.

Just confirming that I've recieved payment from aaron_whittle and Hootchy. Still waiting on the others. Should come through soon, usually takes 48 hours at most.

Recieved payment from Blitz boy and MR VOID :laugh: Thanks guys.

The rest should show up on monday hopefully (TurboX, ducki, and blindsay). shoei's out atm due to gearbox expenses, but I think we have enough to go ahead and get you guys the lowest prices anyways.

recieved payment from blindsay and shoei.

still waiting on TurboX and ducki's payments. I'll give it another 24 hours before putting the order in, coz otherwise its holding up people who have already paid.

Andy if you can make payment before tomorrow then yeah I can fit you in. I'll PM you payment details in a sec.

Fugi, unfortunately you're the only one who seems to be keen at this time... once the kit GB is over then I'll put up one for Amps n stuff that you can get in on.

It'll take a couple of days for the order to be filled, and then its just a matter of me sending them out or you guys picking it up from me (depending on how you want to do it).

Fugi, unfortunately you're the only one who seems to be keen at this time... once the kit GB is over then I'll put up one for Amps n stuff that you can get in on.

Hey fm, do you think you could make it a 'general' audio one cause I'm interested in a few of their response range speakers (splits & coaxial 6.5")

cheers

void

sure mate, can do any japycar part... just give me a jaycar ID and I'll give you a price.

BTW... recieved payment from ducki, ongsta and shoei... so everyone's paid up, and order has been made.

Bad news is there's a delay on the EBC's... should be available mid this week. Sorry guys.

no delays on the other units, I'd rather just do it all in one order if that's OK with you guys (esp coz then I won't have to mail out two things to some of you).

I picked up an s14 solenoid today, i only need some hose and a t-piece and I'm ready to go when the kits are ready(and when exams are finished :sick: )

Is anyone familiar with the wiring of the s14 solenoid? It only has two wires, i guess it is grounded by the body of it.

Is anyone familiar with the wiring of the s14 solenoid? It only has two wires, i guess it is grounded by the body of it.

Hey mate,

RB25det sols only have two wires, +ve and -ve, the solenoid is controlled by the pulse frequency (duty cycle) at the +ve terminal.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...