Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Im trying to install an Xtreme Lightweight flywheel on my RB20DET A31 and I cannot seem to get the flywheel on! Ive done some quick measurements and the Outside of the crank is about 36mm and the internal diametre of the flywheel is about 35.25-35.50mm - the factory flywheel is about the same as the Xtreme. Im using those caliper thingies and they definately have to extend after measuring the flywheel to fit over the crank.

Am I missing something here or is the fly too small to fit over the crank? I know it should be tight but is there a trick I can use? Ive tried sitting the flywheel just over the crank and hitting a piece of wood on the flywheel to get an even fit but it wont budge. Ive also tried a little lubrication but to no avail.

I had thought about installing all 6 flybolts and tightening them evenly to get it to "press over" the crank but If its not gunna go then I can see me crossthreading something and I would hate for that to happen!

Thanks!

JK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132715-cant-install-flywheel-crank-too-big/
Share on other sites

Couple of options from one backyard mechanic to another.

1. Put your flywheel on your BBQ on low heat for 10min, then with some heavy duty gloves try to install quickly. The heat should grow the flywheel by just enough. I have done this before when shifting ring gear (the bit the starter turns) from one flywheel to another and it works a treat. I know it sounds a bit redneck, but this should work. Alternative is an oxy torch to heat it up, but can be hard to get an even heat with an oxy.

2. The press method with the flywheel botls 1/2 turn at a time should work. Just take it easy.

I'd say heating it would be the way to go thou. Hope that helps.

But it has to come off some time Chris so I don't recommend it. Talk to the supplier and check the dimensions, my suggesdtion is it didn't get checked at manufacture. It shouldn't be an interference fit but a sliding fit. A machine shop or engine builder should be able to quickly take it out to the right dimension

I have been contemplating getting 40tho taken off from the inside of the flywheel - BUT i tried to get the factory flywheel back on today and it wont go back on either... how bizzare.

My crank has grown haha

JK

I also noticed that the factory flywheel has some extra machining done on the inside whereas the xtreme doesnt.

So it should be safe to take material off the inside of the flywheel? It should still bolt up OK and should still be "hub centric" over the crank but it wont be tight as buggery like it is now.

JK

if it is the alum one i just left mine in the sun for 30min and it went straight on. to get it back off u just heat it back up.. easy!!

alum expands at diff rates to steel so i wouldnt machine it

hmm I dunno if i'd go machineing it, unless you can confirm your crank is actually bigger than stock. Plus it will be under heat cycles because of the fact it is a friction surface item.

Let's say you take a bit out of it, then it will fit on nicely while cold. But the flywheel expands at a different heat rate to the crank... I dunno perhaps then it may not run 100% true. Just chuck it on the Bar-by and cook yourself up a flywheel with sauce, slide it on and bolt it up. I'd go for tight fit anyday!! (no sexual inuendo intended of course)

I called Xtreme and they recommended heating it aswell. I will give that a go before looking at machining it. I'll have to use the gas stove top inside to do it (whilst the missus is out haha)

JK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary. 
    • There's another sensor that sits inside the evaporator, that's a C U N T to get to, but can be done without removing the entire unit. Usually it's not the sensor that dies but the actual capacitor in the circuit (part of the plug that dies).  
    • Putting the climate control CU into diagnostic mode is independent of the ECU. You just have to do the dance prescribed in the manual. No, I do not know what the dance is. I have an R32, so use the dance in the R32 manual. On older cars, I would have said "no, the ECU should not affect whether the A/C works".... but for an R34 that might be wrong. I don't recall the detail, but there was extra mods required to make my R32 A/C work against the R34 ECU. The R34 ECU apparently gets involved in the running of the A/C more than earlier cars did. Theoretically, if the PFC is a true plug in, then it should just work the way that the original ECU does - wrt A/C. But there's always scope for them to have not cared. Nope. Pressure switch out = getting the fridgey out to pump the gas out before pulling the switch. The switch really cannot sense gas pressure unless it is up against the gas.
    • Hi guys, thanks for the replies.  I will have to wait till summer to test properly, but it short cycles both when heating and cooling. I’ve ordered a new internal temp sensor that sits under the vent in the steering wheel also, GTSBOY, I have an Apexi FC ecu, I’m assuming I won’t be able to diagnose or would it still work? Could the ecu be causing the problem??   the pressure switch is quite cheap I will get a new one and try it out, hopefully it doesn’t require purging the refrigerant again?
×
×
  • Create New...