Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pritty Simple, They Ask to much to insure our cars. Plus they are allways getting stolen, so why would the insurance be cheap.

Im 18 and Just car Wanted $3000 to insure my R33 GTS, Farkin bullshit i say

No, they don't ask too much to insure our cars - we bring it unto ourselves.

Our cars are cheap japanese cars that are easy to steal.

Compounded with the fact that 11tybillion dickheads own them and keep binning them into trees, bus shelters, etc, the premiums are high.

Compounded by the fact that a 18 year old is statistically proven to be more of a crash risk than a 35 year old, and these are the guys getting a hold of the cars.

Sorry to hear that you had the car nicked, but if you know that these cars are a high risk, the cost of insurance should be included in the purchase price.

If you don't have insurance, it's your own fault.

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh man, I feel for you, my car got stolen the other week - like you I had no insurance and no alarm due to factors outside my control. I got mine back luckily, I hope yours returns intact, I live in tas, but I will keep an eye out regardless for anything I find that might be yours, im still watching out for my sub and amp to come up on ebay...

i still dont get why ppl dont get insurance.

if you cant afford that, you cant afford the car.simple.

agreed... sorry to hear about your loss..

The first thing i do before even buying a car is suss out the insurance.. followed by installing an alarm..

No, im not made of money.. but insurance + alarm is alot less expensive than someone stealing my car.

Current insurance is $1373 on a 97 R33 Gtst.. covered for $18000, all mods listed

Sorry to hear mate.

If you get it back - buy an alarm. Get some form of insurance and learn the lesson.

To everyone else who doesn't need an alarm and insurance because their circumstances are special or different, you're dreaming and your car will get stolen like this poor guy's.

your not helping... he knows he should have had insurance so stop reminding him!

I will keep a look out... is there any chance they knew what was under the hood before they stole it? I mean less of a chance of them stealing a stock looking 17yr old car but what if they knew it had a 20 grand engine package? who knows your car etc... its a longshot but worth having a think about...

Insurance depends alot on your age and driving history i think. I have insurance through Just Car Insurance. I have a R33 GTST and it cost me about $1100 for full comp cover. I am 22 at the moment. Also i have never had an accident or any claims ("touches wood"). Excess is quite high though. I am still farked if i hit something. have to fork out for all these excesses, like $1800 or so i think.

dude i said an alarm with a pager...

It doesn't take long for someone (who knows what they're doing) to steal a car.

A pager might be fine if you're sitting at home 20 paces away from the car, but in most instances the car would be gone before you could get back to it, providing that the chosen method of theft even sets the alarm off.

That won't help if they stick it on the back of a truck

This old chestnut. True, an alarm unit won't help if they have a truck, but not many thieves have a flatbed truck.

I often read things like "if they really want your car, they'll get it".

However, this completely ignores the other side of the economy of security: if you really want to protect your car, you can. Who would be able to steal my car if it's locked in a safe at a bank surrounded by barbed wire, a minefield, snipers and a SWAT team? No one, and certainly not a thief with just a flatbed truck.

But clearly this approach sacrifices freedom for security, for I would be unable to reasonably drive my car under such conditions.

So the question becomes, how far are you willing to go? Where will your economy of protection reach equilibrium? I would argue that an alarm and a decent immobilisation unit constitute an acceptable level of security without unduly impinging on my freedom to use the vehicle: in essence, these are costs that I am willing to bear. The same goes for a steering wheel lock.

Some people go so far as to avoid driving their vehicles. I am unwilling to pay such a high price (that is, to deny myself not only the benefit of opportunity investment on the value of the car, but also the intangible benefit of owning it in the first place). I am also not willing to let the lowest common denominator dictate what I can and cannot do with my car.

It doesn't take long for someone (who knows what they're doing) to steal a car.

A pager might be fine if you're sitting at home 20 paces away from the car, but in most instances the car would be gone before you could get back to it, providing that the chosen method of theft even sets the alarm off.

so u reckon the theif could hotwire it and put it on a truck in no time?

There are reasons why I have been waiting until my 30's to get a High Performance import - Insurance is one of them, experience is another, enough income to afford to drive the thing and put petrol in it another.....

Well if the pager only works for 20 paces i wouldn't see the point of having it. I've got a moderate one and it has a 3km radius. Soo must be huge paces :teehee: However I incorporate a steering lock everytime, the only time my car ever got stolen (not the skyline thankfully) was the one day i didn't put the Steering Lock in the car.

Another idea would to (once the car is found and hopefully one), would to park in such a way that it takes time to get out. Another reason for this is that people can't bring tray top trucks behind or infront of them.

Hope the car is found soon :(

Edited by DC_GTST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...