Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, just quickly...

I replaced my stock fuel pump a while ago with a bosch 040 in my R32 GTS-t.

Since then, I have had trouble starting it (have to wait for it to fully prime the lines and pump the gas)

I believe this is due to the factory pump having a valve in it to stop fuel draining back in the tank. Hence my problem!

Can someone give me a couple of pointers? Firstly, where do I purchase a suitable valve and how much should I expect? Also, where is the best place to fit it? Is there enough space just after the pump at the top of the cradle in the fuel line ?(it's pretty tight there from memory, I am guessing as close to the tank the better).

Anyway, thankyou in advance for you help!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132798-fuel-pump-one-way-valve/
Share on other sites

i have a Walbro GSS 342 and it came inbuilt with an anti drain valve,a nd semas to work ok.

I have noticed however, that if the car is really hot, it take a bit longer to get started since the new pump, an adjustable fuel reg will fix that a little. It's like it fired 3 cylinders and then the rest come to life very shortly after that.

a mate of mine just fitted one, to a bosh pump, go to a place next to Autocraft called, on collin steet, not sure about name, very new place, they sell all BOSCH pumps and geat a great bunch of guys, look out for the yellow bosch boxes, they'll sought you out.

the antidrain valve is usualy fitted in the fuel tank, so you always have fuel in the line.

Try Auto Service Solutions in Collin street on 62313499 they have boch and walbro pumps and valves to suit.

Thats where i got my GSS342

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...