Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking for my next project that I would like to get an old R33 skyline motor that is tires or has been blown a piston etc and complete a full rebuild on the motor etc.

This will be a slow project and as funds allow I will then try to chase up a shell or a cheap skyline to put the motor into.

I would prefer a motor that comes with everything, does anyone know of any?

What is the full potential of these motors? and what sort of power can a standard R33 skyline drivetrain handle?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132804-new-project/
Share on other sites

In any case, the "full potential" of a motor will vary depending on who tunes it, and how much money you have for parts, and development if you're not using an already-proven package. Even then, the actual power you make will vary a little, as no two engines are exactly the same.

If you're talking RB25, Hordcore Performance in QLD have one making 795rwhp (a bit under 600rwkW), I believe it's still 2.5 litres, ie it hasn't been stroked. That's the most powerful one that I am personally aware of, but there are no doubt others. I have no idea what kind of maintenance is required on this car but I'm guessing if something did go bang, that the parts and work required to fix it wouldn't be cheap.

RB26 - well the quickest one is the HKS drag GTR, which apparently puts out something like 1200kW. Completely unrealistic for someone on a limited budget but you did ask lol.

If I were you, I would build an RB30/25, particularly given that you're obviously on a budget of some kind but don't mind if it takes you a while to put together. A search will bring up heaps more details but basically this involves putting an RB25 head on an RB30 bottom end. Apart from giving you an extra 500cc to play with, it also squares the engine (bore/stroke), and RB30 blocks aren't too hard to get hold of. You can use an RB26 head but they cost a lot more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132804-new-project/#findComment-2461462
Share on other sites

I am looking for an RB25 DET motor, I have rang all around perth today and I have had no luck in sourcing an old motor!

I am not really on a budget but it is just something I want to do slowly myself, then when ready I will buy a body or a cheapish R33 skyline to transplant the motor into. I dont want to buy a car and have it possibly sitting around for 12 months while I rip the motor out and do what I want to it. I think I would be aiming at around 500 rwkw.

All I want to do at the moment is source a motor to start on my project.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132804-new-project/#findComment-2461858
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...