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At Repco they got one for 70 bucks, is this a good price or can I get it any cheaper anywhere else?

Also Im changing my tranny oil to transmax z and need a tranny flush... do i need to buy some type of detergent for this process or how does it work?

Cheers.

Edited by Sir-D
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the filters in the autos are metal. just clean them out and save yourself the $70. nissan sell them for $80 with the SAU discount, i didnt end up getting it because the guy even told me to just clean it.

i used some degreaser, then washed it out with water then blew it out with the compressor.

dextron III is what most people use.

you'll have around 8L of oil to replace if you want to do a complete oil change. you'll have around 3-4L in your gearbox sump, and another 4-5L in your torque converter.

a good method is to undo the two oil lines going to your radiator (find out which one is the feed and which is the return), put the return into the new oil and the feed into a bucket,

turn the car on (alot safer with 2 people so someone can turn the car on and off, and someone can keep an eye on the oil) and

stop when the feed is draining oil that is close to the colour of the new oil,

then check the oil level.

you'll need around 2x 4L containers to do it properly.

do this after you've cleaned/replaced the filter :)

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Cheers mate! I wont buy the filter.

So clean the filter then change the oil.... Ive got 3 x 4 litre bottles of Transmax Z oil...

What about the flush of the old engine oil? I presume that the current old oil in my tranny isnt Transmax Z... or is the whole flush process what you described above?

Edited by Sir-D
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Joes post tells you how to replace the fluid (the rest is right too) but it doesn't flush it. There is a special pumping tool that auto trans shops have that you need to flush the fluid. It's not cheap and they use heaps of fluid to do it. I think I got quoted about $200 last time I checked.

The only alternative I can think of would be to use the method Joe posted above then drive it for a week, do it again, drive for a week then do it one last time. That should get most of it flushed. Probably use about 12 litres which is what a shop would have used to flush it anyway but you save on labour costs. Massive pain in the arse though.

Do the R33's have a drain plug? R34's do but R31's don't, dunno about R33 or R32.

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Do the R33's have a drain plug? R34's do but R31's don't, dunno about R33 or R32.

i have 3 transmissions, a r32 turbo with no plug

also a r33 5speed auto no plug

and a vl std non turbo auto no plug

why do you need a plug anyways your got to take the pan off anyways!

AND ALSO, DO NOT EVER USE SILLICON OF ANY TYPE NEAR OR AROUND THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. sillicon will swell up and block the small holes required for the fluid to flow through.

Edited by rb25_vl
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Yeh me too!

the trans is in my Vl at the moment and i got everything working minus the ecu and wiring.

i got 2 pics from before i picked it up

rb25autobox001.jpg

this one is where you can see the major difrence with the extra housing opposite to the spedo drive.

rb25autobox002.jpg

this is just the right and side no major diffrences

the biggest diffrence is the physical length of the box my vl box and my r32 box are the same length this box i had to remove 50mm from my tail shaft so im quessing its 50mm longer. and the yolk is that same as a vlt manuel yolk or the r33 manuel turbo type.

they call the box a JATCO RE5R01A. It essentially a RE4R01A with a different Valve Body (copyed and pated from a email i got)

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Wow. Interesting. I wonder what car it was in originally cos I've never heard of a 5 speed auto R33 but the box is obviously around that age. How much power are you punching out of the VL?

not a lot, just std rb25de power 144 kw i think arnt they?

it was off the back of a rb25 that a member from this forum had which i bought start of this year.

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