Jump to content
SAU Community

Comp Test's

RB SANDY

By RB SANDY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB SANDY Rising Star

RB SANDY

Posted
Posted

Is there a post on comp test's and how it is done also what should all the psi's be and the leak down time on a rb25 also do you take out all the plugs

or just the one you are doing also to stop the fuel can you just pull fuse out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133145-comp-tests/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

1. idle car, disconnect fuel pump and the car will stall

2. remove all spark plugs

3. connect tester to each pot while cranking ~5secs each with throttle wide open.

PSI in every cylinder doesn't really matter. Its the variance between that is critical.

However, providing your tester is reading correctly it should be no lower than 140psi. Optimally it should be up around 160.

The guages read all different. Don't be too concerned with the actual reading, just the variance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133145-comp-tests/#findComment-2466814
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Milkmun
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By Milkmun · Posted

      At least it was the ex.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...