Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey People's,

I've recently sold my 180sx and in the market for a R34, have a few lined up to have a look at.

I searched the forum to do some research on common problems etc. but was unable to find anything helpful.

Just want to know what to look out for when getting one of these cars, I'm also a mechanic so I know how to check over cars, but just common problems that I should keep an eye out for.

Thanks for ya help.

Cheers

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/
Share on other sites

I did read through that, I'm a mechanic so i'm obviously going to check the things listed there.

But is there anything in particular that goes wrong with a r34?

I.E What is a safe boost level for the turbo's and injectors,

Are the lifters and injectors normally noisy?

etc.

Thanks for your help though

Cheers

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2467665
Share on other sites

you can have mine for 25,000 i'm in SA.

Are the turbo's aren't much good over 10psi or so.

The lifters don't really make any noise not like a gtr.

Coil packs seem to go around th 60,000 mark.

some small things like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2467713
Share on other sites

Far out... is that what my problem could be?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=116103&hl=

I did an ECU reset and it hasn't come on since then, however that was just 2 days ago. I just got a new 3" full exhaust and when I gun it it has this MASSIVE hesitation/stutter at around 5000rpm. The exhaust pops a little bit more than I think it should as well...

Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is the coil the thing that gives electrical power to the spark plugs? How much does it cost to replace these? And who would you get to do this? A Nissan dealer?

Any good way to confirm that this is the problem?

My R34 has only done 31,000kms (I do believe they are genuine - I paid big for this and have service history) but is a 1999.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2475666
Share on other sites

Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is the coil the thing that gives electrical power to the spark plugs? How much does it cost to replace these? And who would you get to do this? A Nissan dealer?

Any good way to confirm that this is the problem?

My R34 has only done 31,000kms (I do believe they are genuine - I paid big for this and have service history) but is a 1999.

Yeah the coilpacks are part of the system that delivers the charge to the spark plugs.

The cost to replace them with genuine items is over $1,000. What just about everyone does is replace them with similar coils called 'Splitfires' which are actually better, and cheaper. If you look around you can get them for $850 or even slightly less these days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2476158
Share on other sites

Yep seems like many 34 owners have the same problems with their coil packs. Apart from that dont think theres much things to worry about hance they arent that old compared to 32s which needs more attention.

I think thats a fairly common problem with RB twin cams. the coil packs get so hot under that cover. I had about 3 fail on my HR31 (obviously cos its old), and also when it had a late R32 engine in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2476328
Share on other sites

The coil packs are as simple as changing the spark plugs. So anyone who has done that before can show you. I would, but I dont think you`re in my neighbourhood.

Are they really $1000? I remember for the RB20DET in my HR31 they were around $160, new. Are they a different unit?

Also, I have a question re: buying an R34. What options came from the factory? Cruise control, sunroof, dashboard gauges, etc.

Thanks.

Edited by R-sanyon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2476344
Share on other sites

Get onto perfectrun they do splitfire packs for very good prices, normally around $550 delivered.

Another problem with the auto's is the shift solenoids in the gearbox, these can start to breakdown...not as common as bloody coilpacks though! Also not very obvious until you find the car locking in 3rd gear a lot, until one day it never comes out!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133193-help-on-r34/#findComment-2476354
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • from an old insurance company i was with (Budget Direct) I had someone roll back into me at the lights got them to pull over. Got a picture of thier licence with address, had a dash cam video and, thier phone number. But only had 3rd party on the shitbox i was driving. insurance did nothing, cops wouldn't do anything due to the value of the damage (under $3000) so i just had to suck it up and go to U Pull It. 
    • Small Update on the Exhaust Situation A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact. It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love. In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.  
    • And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.
×
×
  • Create New...