Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having problems bleeding the clutch on my R32 GTST. I've bled it so there's only clean fluid coming from all three nipples... no air... but there is still absolutely no pedal feel. Does anyone know whats going on??? :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133213-clutch-bleeding-problems/
Share on other sites

Well i'm guessing there's a lot of air in them as i've just done auto to manual conversion so all lines were installed with nothing in them.

What do you mean by "back off the master cylinder" ?

For your future reference aftermarket (Protec & PBR) clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders can be picked up for ~$70 and ~$40 respectively.

When bleeding the R32's clutch I start with the master cyl, then the center box and then the slave, then do it again.

I've had a few issues bleeding mine in the past so I removed the center box and length of lines. I simply bent the metal line that runs in to the box back 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder. Works well and actually provided better clutch feel that makes driving a ceramic clutch just that little bit easier.

Some have suggested this center box and length of lines are there to help keep the clutch fluid cool. I'm not so sure; what temps does the clutch fluid really see? A half decent dot4 boiling point is ~250-270degree's, if fluid temp was really an issue they would have set up something similiar for brake lines that see much higher temps that a slave cylinder.

For your future reference aftermarket (Protec & PBR) clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders can be picked up for ~$70 and ~$40 respectively.

Hey Cubes, where from?? I'm having similar issues as Psymon!

Edited by manage13

U can get dud new replacements though, as i found out. I replaced my master and bled it but it still had a slow leak ( put your foot on the pedal resting and it would drop slowly)

If the tiniest bit of dirt gets in, it can fark the seals.

I did buy a set for one of the guys interstate and posted them out to him, so i may be able to do it again if ppl didnt mind paying for my time/petrol to organise clutch master/slaves from all clutch and brake here in SA :cool:

I got a IBS slave cylinder to fit an rb20 box and it was about $30 from a brakes place (any brakes / clutch place that can get IBS should be able to get it)..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...slave+cylinder#

^^ All there

It's much easier to bleed if you spend $70 and get a one-piece braided clutch line as well to get rid of the twisty pipe.. then there is only two points to bleed.

Predator;

Instead of the braided clutch line I simply removed the centerbox and bent the line 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder.

Works well and is free. :O

EDIT: Checked the link.. I've just repeated myself. lol

Instead of the braided clutch line I simply removed the centerbox and bent the line 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder

you can do that as well if you like :O when going from auto to manual you have to track down / buy the extra bendy pipe.. in my case was easier for me to order a new one.

Psymon I hope you don't mind me highjacking your thread for a little while but I have a similar problem to you. Hopefully someone can help.

I have been bleeding my clutch for the past two weekends for more than a few hours. Yet the pedal pressure increases slightly however when the car is started the pressure of the pedal drops a little. I can’t see any visible leaks from the slave and I believe I have got rid of all the air pockets as I have bled the clutch more than a few times now. Can anyone hazard a guess to what my problem is? Has my slave had it?

Thanking everyone in advance.

hmm OK I guess it might be GTR only...it has a vacuum line from the manifold to a small booster at the master cylinder. When the car starts the vacuum makes the clutch pedal noticably lighter.

hmm OK I guess it might be GTR only...it has a vacuum line from the manifold to a small booster at the master cylinder. When the car starts the vacuum makes the clutch pedal noticably lighter.

Hi Duncan, thanks for the reply.

The clutch is much lighter when the car is running however I can't select gears. Also my clutch used to rattle when the clutch pedal was pressed down now I hear no rattle. Any idea??

Did you try bench bleeding the master cylinder?

Sometimes when you try bleed it in the car when the master cylinder is new, and you keep pumping it, the cups inside the master cylinder can turn inside out.

So when you bleed it fuid still comes out when the nipple is open, and when you close it and pump the pedal, it doesnt hold pressure and the piston just passes through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...