Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

down at my uncles workshop is a 650hp rx7 with a 20b rotary in it and a rather large turbo you know.. all the fruit but its been in an accident like the engine is fine but the front of the chassis is screwed. now im wondering if its worth spending the 8 grand on it mainly due the engine being seriously worked on and just finding a half cut, my uncle reckons dont touch it because you dont know whats been done to it but still... 8 grand for 650hp oh and its got drifting suspension the one where you can adjust the camber or something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133233-rx-7-reliability/
Share on other sites

Did they put ceramic apex seals in it?

IIRC the apex seals are the first go, if they skimped whilst rebuilding it I wouldn't expect stockers to last that long at that kind of power. They also chew petrol like theres no tomorrow.

I'd be asking for dyno proof of said 650hp if I was considering it.

That said if you stick the motor in the smallest car you can and your bound for a heap of fun :yes:

So what model are we talking about here? FB,D,C?

Its a case of the classic risk return trade off here. One one hand you might do ok and have and insane car for damn good money. On the other hand you might end up getting it in a new front cut then it exploding on you (not uncommon with high HP engines) the the car falling apart around you and haveing to shell out a constant stream of meony for a car that is never on the road. If you have a daily driver and a but of spare cash flow id say you could sorta go for it if you have a little bit of a daring side. If not probably not a good idea.

well i rang the guy up an found out its just a 13b rotary which was depressing says he got 650hp on 30psi with race fuel. what a let down *sigh* so im going to pass but if anyones interested just pm me. apparently he goes on alot of anti lag cruises

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan needs to forget about building SUVs in every size possible and bring back the damn Silvia/200sx duo to compete with the 86/brz. Maybe with the Honda type r motor pointing the right way
    • Good to see you followed your heart, got your dream car and have it pretty well sorted out now. I think anyone can get caught out with a seller not being 100% honest about a cars problems. Can relate to all the electrical issues, had similar issues with my first car (mk2 escort) ages ago
    • I just bought the Nexus S3 for my gtt, haven’t installed it yet as I’m collecting parts to do everything at once…so far spent $14,000 The Nexus is nearly future proof
    • Honda's hybrid system can be easily scaled up to PHEVs. Series hybrid at low speeds, at higher speeds the engine directly drives the wheels but there can still be some power bled off to charge the battery + the electric motor can still provide parallel assistance too. It's really only a question of will at that point. Toyota's PHEVs are selling incredibly well at the moment because of the flexibility. You can run on EV mode when it makes sense, but if you're planning on doing a long highway drive you can still fire up the gas engine and not have to worry about dealing with the rather miserable state of public charging infrastructure.
    • Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.
×
×
  • Create New...