Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used to call them kick plates, but since then I've been told they're known as scuff plates; door sills etc etc etc.

Just got a note from the guy; R33GTST ones may be possible (as in made from scratch) but will require something like 20sets to be moved in the first order.

Nope... just source yourself some REALLY strong double sided tape/adhesive.

Else you could do what they have done on the R32GTRs and have a few holes drilled - then run 2 studs into the lip in line with these holes so it holds it in place - still use the tape though.

UPDATE: Sprayer now has my Bonnet Lip, Fuel Lid and Paint Code ;)

Just to add to the bonnett lip. you really should run screws through with the adhesive tape. reason why, is you will try and llift your bonnett by the lip, and eveny if you dont, your mechanic will.

I just drilled two holes through the bonnett where the lip sits, dry mount the lip, mark the place you put the holes and drill them in the lip when its off the bonnett.

Then just screw the bonnett lip on.

John

Ok; finally got a chance to put the bonnet lip on... well kinda; it was mock fitted tonight just because n15m0 wouldn't stop bugging me :)

post-19974-1159281593.jpgpost-19974-1159281699.jpgpost-19974-1159281756.jpgpost-19974-1159281822.jpg

Need to go away now and plan a neat installation without ruining the bonnet :)

Cheers heaps to HSR for the paint job; looks great!

Yeah it was; just held on by two strips of double sided tape... I'm still deciding how this is going to be fastened into place for good.

I think I did hear it peel a bit as I was taking the photos; took it off quick smart before it fell onto the ground.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...