Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I was wondering how much boost the standard rb25 turbo can hold b4 dieing. I have read here some ppl saying 14psi, while others say anything over 12psi 'makes no difference because the turbo is working past its efficiency'

I know this has beens asked b4.Yes I did do a search but there seems to be conflicting answers. does anyone know for sure, is 14 psi too much? i wanna know because i will be replacing the bleed valve with an Electronic BC and getting the car tuned so wanted to raise the boost a bit more. And also if the turbo can handle 14psi will that increased amount of fuel entering the motor be fine as far as the standard fuel pump etc is concerned or will that need to be upgraded. Thanks :O

nah, at 14psi I think the exhaust wheel can just shatter... spinning too fast.

12 is the commonly quoted "maximum" you would ever want to run, but to expect much shorter lifespan out of the turbo.

10 is the safety level that people run their stockers at.

Having said that though, i've seen guys say they run their stock turbo at 14psi every day for 2 years with no problems.

Depends if you want to take the risk for the extra power or not. I'm still running 7psi using a manual controller, and might go up to 10 once I have my exhaust sorted.

Matt Spry tuned my car when i bought my pfc...

He set my SBC ID-III to 13.4 psi and said not a peeny more and not a penny less...

He did clearify that the tune needs to be almost perfect to keep it reliable... If you do a dodgy tune you will break it...

It achieved a round 200rwkw with really impressive responce...

Then from there i was not happy so i spent 7 grand on a bottom end and new turbo...

I ran my stocker at 14-15-16-17psi for a few days trying to break it and i could not break it...

Its the heat that kills the turbo mate and boost for extented periods generates heat so for short burts you could probably get away with 14psi. On a tack day mind you people have seen these turbos let go at 10psi.

After 10-12psi the turbo is running out of effecincy you may gain an extra 5-10 rwkw but is that little extra power worth risking the turbo for? I think not personally, I run 10.5psi max and dont plan to run any more boost than this.

cheers

i find the stock turbo a great all rounder. i have no issues with keeping up with cars on the street, although single spinner diff is annoying. can take down xr8's, xr6turbo's, and the usual stack of vlts and what not. 0 to 100 in 4.88 but pretty crappy 1/4 due to single spinner and cold track

I understand that long periods of time running high pis like 14-16 or what ever will break the turbo.

I just could not do it...

I ran 3-4 track days at 13.4psi and never had an issue...

Im not saying that the turbo is great and you get heaps of power, thats why i upgraded to a gt30 but the stock turbo is good for 200rwkw all day...

There is conflicting information because there isn’t one solid answer that fits ever car, every driver and every situation. The right answer is, it depends on how well the car is tuned, what it is used for and what it is driven like. Ceramic in the cat disease is caused by three things working together, heat, torque and turbo shaft rpm. There are various combinations of the 3 causes, but lots of all 3 is certain death.

So I boil it down to 3 answers;

1. The guys that actually USE the power that 12 psi (or so) generates. They have killed a turbo or 2, and found that for what they use the car for, 10 psi is about as high as they can go before its ceramic in the cat time. They know from experience that the 10 psi keeps the shaft rpm down. So their continual hard driving may build up heat, but the shaft speed is low enough so the turbine survives. The lower boost means less torque loading on the turbine blades (turning the compressor). The car makes good power because it is tuned with reasonably lean (power making) A/F ratios.

2. The guys that cruise around and hardly ever use the 12 psi (or so). They give it a burst occasionally for a second or two. The car makes good power because it is tuned with reasonably lean (power making) A/F ratios. But they don’t really USE the power for any length of time. So the heat doesn’t build up. Hence they get away with the higher boost.

3. The cars that run 12 psi (or so) but run rather rich, so they don’t really develop the power to justify running 12 psi (or so). They can run the boost for reasonable periods because rich A/F ratios = a cooler turbine. Similarly they get away with the higher boost.

So the answer is which category do you belong to?

Personally I’m a #1, a few laps of the circuit at a supersprint or a track day or a long blast up Mooney Mooney Hill and I would kill a turbine, if I used more than 10psi. Take a look at the other responses and judge for yourself what category they fall into.

:P cheers :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...