Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks heaps mate. I just checked my rear springs, and to my suprise they are 200.16.006, so only 6kg in the rear, as oppose to the 8kg stated on the website, i will check my fronts tommorow, it will either be 12kg (as website states), or 8kg, like the others on the site, maybe they realised 12/8 is an extreme cambination for r33's?......either way even with 6kg rears, i still get a harsh ride....

Sydneykid, i will get you my coil details tommorow, as they are written on the coil itself, should b easy as.......once you get the details, will the springs you supply(if you do), be a perfect fit for my shocks?

Last question....what does changing spring rates effect, and will it have much impact handling wise?, and will i still have height adjustability?

Thanks heaps mate. I just checked my rear springs, and to my suprise they are 200.16.006, so only 6kg in the rear, as oppose to the 8kg stated on the website, i will check my fronts tommorow, it will either be 12kg (as website states), or 8kg, like the others on the site, maybe they realised 12/8 is an extreme cambination for r33's?......either way even with 6kg rears, i still get a harsh ride....

Sydneykid, i will get you my coil details tommorow, as they are written on the coil itself, should b easy as.......once you get the details, will the springs you supply(if you do), be a perfect fit for my shocks?

Last question....what does changing spring rates effect, and will it have much impact handling wise?, and will i still have height adjustability?

Front 180.62.012, that means 180 mm free height, 62 mm ID and 12 kg/mm spring rate

Rear 200.62.008 , that means 200 mm free height, 62 mm ID and 8 kg/mm spring

200.16.006 doesn't make sense, is it a typo?

You need to measure the free height and the ID just to be sure. The numbering convention says 200 mm free height and 62 mm (2 1/2") ID. So all I have to do is order some Eibach springs for the rear with the same free height and ID, but wiht a more applicable spring rate, say around 4kg/mm.

The free height difference in the front (180 mm versus 200 mm) can be accommodated in the height adjustment. Which you will have to do anyway as the lower rate springs will compress more with the weight of the car on them.

To answer your questions;

Usually when you use more appropriate spring rates the handling improves, you have more traction as the tyres don't leap from bump to bump, they actually stay on the road.

Yes, the height adjustability stays, just changing the spring rate, that's all.

:O cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

cheers, will it definitely be the rears that are causing me the problems mate?and since atm the rears are 6kg, putting those to the front and say 4kg to the rears, would that be a good combo?it definitely feels as those the wheels are off the road at certain times, and having set the damper to soft doesnt make much difference.

For what its worth, the damper adjusts both bound/rebound

cheers,

p.s pm me iwth some rough estimates for the rear springs, im in nz btw

thanks

"The free height difference in the front (180 mm versus 200 mm) can be accommodated in the height adjustment. Which you will have to do anyway as the lower rate springs will compress more with the weight of the car on them."

does this mean the new springs will be 200mm height adjustables, like the rears currently, does that mean the car will go lower

Edited by nsta
"The free height difference in the front (180 mm versus 200 mm) can be accommodated in the height adjustment. Which you will have to do anyway as the lower rate springs will compress more with the weight of the car on them."

does this mean the new springs will be 200mm height adjustables, like the rears currently, does that mean the car will go lower

If you want it to, yes the springs are shorter by 20 mm.

:cool: cheers :)

as long as i can go as low as i can now with my coilovers im happy(just for show days i tend to drop it). The lowest possible setting on the coilovers for the rear, as not very low keep in mind.........so if i can keep the springs the same length, or longer (so i can go lower) that would really help.

cheers

i'll get back to you l8r on about my correct spring rate/id/height

sorry mate, my no's were way off.....and to my suprise, checking my spring rates after pulling out the wheels....here are the figures...

Front: 62.180.014 (no typo here!)

Rear: 62.200.006

That front spring rate is extreme.....

One thing though, even though the rear has more height adjustment then the fronts, the rear doesnt go nearly as low as the front can....is this common with r33's?

sorry mate, my no's were way off.....and to my suprise, checking my spring rates after pulling out the wheels....here are the figures...

Front: 62.180.014 (no typo here!)

Rear: 62.200.006

That front spring rate is extreme.....

One thing though, even though the rear has more height adjustment then the fronts, the rear doesnt go nearly as low as the front can....is this common with r33's?

The suspension geometry on the rear is the limiting factor. It all turns to shyte when you get it below 340 mm. The front is somewhat more tolerant, the geometry doesn't get too ugly until 325 mm.

:( cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...