Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys i installed a Apexi Dual chamber blow off valve to my R33 Gtst Skyline and well, its not working lol????

Its blowing out my air cleaner making a flutter sound? Turbo spooling backwards? no good eh? the valve isnt opening on the top and the funny thing is you cant suck the plunger up (vacume) like you could on the stock BOV any ideas guys i have tryed hooking this up every bloody way maybe still doing it wrong can somone give me some info or maybe this BOV is just not working how it should ><

or its the wrong one :)

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9792/3008061807xy1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133581-bov-problem-help/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys i installed a Apexi Dual chamber blow off valve to my R33 Gtst Skyline and well, its not working lol????

Its blowing out my air cleaner making a flutter sound? Turbo spooling backwards? no good eh? the valve isnt opening on the top and the funny thing is you cant suck the plunger up (vacume) like you could on the stock BOV any ideas guys i have tryed hooking this up every bloody way maybe still doing it wrong can somone give me some info or maybe this BOV is just not working how it should ><

or its the wrong one :D

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9792/3008061807xy1.jpg

the flutter sound is the rush of pressure back to the turbo and the resonation in the cooler.... cause its not releasing... and its trying to find a way out, and so the only way it is through the air filters... Alot of people will give u theories as to whether this is bad for ur turbo or not - in the long term it is bad

its definately not the wrong BOV, i know plenty of guys wit a dual chamber one u have, clearly the BOV is blocked, thus the noise i mentioned above

r u sure u cant adjust it by turning it with like a wrench?

the flutter sound is the rush of pressure back to the turbo and the resonation in the cooler.... cause its not releasing... and its trying to find a way out, and so the only way it is through the air filters... Alot of people will give u theories as to whether this is bad for ur turbo or not - in the long term it is bad

its definately not the wrong BOV, i know plenty of guys wit a dual chamber one u have, clearly the BOV is blocked, thus the noise i mentioned above

r u sure u cant adjust it by turning it with like a wrench?

I have it its as lose as it can go... maybe i should change the spring so its under less load?

Would you be able to find out where they have the vacume hoses going???

and no it never blows off i am only running 7 pund but that shouldnt matter

Thanks a bunch for these replys its very helpfull

Edited by Woody1
I have it its as lose as it can go... maybe i should change the spring so its under less load?

Would you be bale to find out where they have the vacume hoses going???

Thanks a bhunch for these replys its very helpfull

The vacuum hose must go to the plenum between the throttle body and #4 inlet runner, there is a port there for it, if that is connected, then the bov is probably stuck, just dismantle it, clean it all up and rub any marks or rough spots with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

The vacuum hose must go to the plenum between the throttle body and #4 inlet runner, there is a port there for it, if that is connected, then the bov is probably stuck, just dismantle it, clean it all up and rub any marks or rough spots with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

You shouldn't need to do this to a new BOV. Never use sandpaper on this internals, you will wreck it.

Is that an adapter plate that came with the BOV?

Someone asked a similar question once, and it ended up being a blocking plate that the new BOV was bolted to.

Stupid suggestion, but it was stupid last time too! ;o)

Oh, and you're not getting any less power, right? It's building actual boost over the "0" mark on the stock guage, yeah?

Is that an adapter plate that came with the BOV?

Someone asked a similar question once, and it ended up being a blocking plate that the new BOV was bolted to.

Stupid suggestion, but it was stupid last time too! ;o)

Oh, and you're not getting any less power, right? It's building actual boost over the "0" mark on the stock guage, yeah?

No im not getting any less power, i dismantled the bov nothing is wrong in there, no that adaptor didnt come with the bov i made it, people wanted to charge me $130 for them to make it so i just did it myself cost me $5, and an hour of my time, the bov has 3 vacume house's coming out of it top, middle bottom, the bottom is for a boost gauge so i blocked it off the top is where i assume the Vacume house from the manifold goes (same house the stock one had) and the middle is hooked up to the same chamber i had blocked off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...