Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bro,

My PowerFC in my 34 GTR doesnt make any noise but i notice my hand controller makes alot of noise.

Just holding it up and shaking it around will give you sounds like its not put together well and like something is loose on the inside.

If im not mistaken, my PowerFC unit fits snugly..

I took apart the hand commander by the 2 screws behind and it just looks like the board is somewhat loose so i used some blu-tack and i wedged a few pieces around to make everything tight and compact and closed it back up and now its really silent.

Hope it helps!

maybe a ticking relay? try watching ETC,SENSOR SW / CHECK when you notice the problem, do you see anything going on and off rapidly (block dot flashing)

ok ill give that a go when i go drive in a min...

if it is that what can i do about it?

ok took the car for a drive and did the things u suggested paul.....

know went to 8 at the most and the sensor check didnt seem to do anything strange had some come on and off as i pushed the pedal but nothing flashing rapidly.....

anyone else got any ideas....

Im going to check to see that it is mounted really well shortly does anything in the unit cause it to vibrate if not mouted tight?

Its a fast vibration sound and only happens when accelerating hard.

Maybe it only sounds like it's coming from the passenger footwell?

Checked your exhaust manifold lately? Still got all the studs holding it on?

You didnt fit a Apexi boost control kit as well did u? I had mine in just last week n the solenoid valve makes a rattle when it comes on boost, alot louder than i expected. Apparently the Apexi valve is one of the loudest ones around so i was told.

You didnt fit a Apexi boost control kit as well did u? I had mine in just last week n the solenoid valve makes a rattle when it comes on boost, alot louder than i expected. Apparently the Apexi valve is one of the loudest ones around so i was told.

this will be your problem, i have an avcr and it makes the same noise, farken annoying sounds similar to detonation, which freaks me out sometimes.

Some are louder than others, a good friend has one that's almost twice as loud as mine, next time your car is on the dyno try and get close to the boost controller solenoid, you will here that little tapping noise. ;)

Yup rattles quick just as it comes on boost, its annoying so u may have to just put up with it. When i first had mine in, i thought it was my turbo wheel hitting the housing, took out the intake pipe, checked the shaft for play n was all good. Took me awhile but i soon realised that it was just the BC valve.

Perhaps a good pair subs will help drown the noise out......

Im trying to overcome the drone from my Blitz catback, now that's loud, even hurts my ears if im in the car for awhile...

yeah i got the boost control kit as well..... maybe it is when it comes on boost....

ill try unplugging it and putting it back in agian see how that goes

G Force is the rattle really quick and rappid.....?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
    • Any recommendations for what would be the easiest welding type to start on, for sheet metal rust repairs and maybe some exhaust piping too? Seems like MIG is the most common. Would gasless MIG be ok to learn on and do some simple jobs? I have a stick welder which has a Lift TIG setting, but i'm more interested in getting whatever's easiest to do, and most suitable, rather than using what i have.
    • Is the UP Garage in the US of Ayyeee even the real UP Garage?
×
×
  • Create New...