Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, clutches are something I don't know a lot about.

I got into the car this morning and 1st gear was really hard to get into and the car will start to take off immediately after I start to release the clutch pedal upwards. I also noticed that when I put it into second gear (I wanted to do a 2nd gear takeoff cause it was easier to get into than 1st gear) that the car would jump a little forward when engaging 2nd gear (even with my foot totally on the clutch). The clutch itself seems fine, it's not worn out.

Do these cars have hydraulic clutches?

Do I need to fill some reservoir?? Where do I need to look for that and what type of fluid do I need?

Car is a 1993 - R32 GTST - RB20DET

Need this fixed before days end cause I have to drive in and out of the city traffic again/stop/start and it's a real pain, it feels like I'm forcing the gears, which can't be good for the gearbox.

Fixxxer :D

Edited by Fixxxer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133785-clutch-issues-to-the-floor/
Share on other sites

not good for the gearbox. check the clutch fluid (resevoir should look similar to a brake fluid resevoir, will take brake fluid too), but if it's low then it basically means you have a leak, so either master or slave (or clutch line, but less likely) has issues.

brake shops can rebuild them, nissans new replacement prices on some cars is actually quite good and makes the rebuild not worth it, so worth a phone call.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I've got the car back home now from the city.... 1st gear was almost crunching each time I had to put it into 1st gear, so it seems to be getting a little worse.

I had a look in the reservoir next to the brake stuff, the single pot is about 3/4 to the full mark, way above the MIN line, so I'm at a loss as to whats going wrong? Any further advice???

Fixxxer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...