Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jack at the rear use the diff,

at the front the crossmember as it is one of the stronger points, otherwise use two trolley jacks and under the lower control arms on the front and these are cast and rather strong...

but do NOT put the jack anywhere near the steering rack, sway bar, sump or gear box as the result may cost more than an arm and a leg...

To be quite honest I would use the jack and then place axle stands underneath for more even distribution, remember use the right tool for the right job.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

a tyre shop jacked my r33 up on the front sills. It popped both my front guards out and flattened the ride with the jacking point marks in it. I didnt notice it until a few days later so they wouldnt fix it. I have since noticed alot of skylines with the same, bottom of the front guard popped out slightly.

  • 3 months later...

If you are jacking your car up on a completely flat surface (garage concrete floor) your car isn't going to move anywhere if you have wood/bricks infront & behind the other 3 wheels.

I just use the factory/standard jack points (which of course are damaged).

I also have to drive the front wheels up onto some 4x2 because of my sideskirts being too low.

I use the factory jacking point in the sills to jack up the car, a piece of 6"x4"x2" hardwood with a slot cut in the top (3/4" deep 1/2" wide across the top face) goes between the jacking point and the trolley jack. Zero damage as the load is taken the same as the factory scissor jack.

  Bobjones said:
at the front the crossmember as it is one of the stronger points, otherwise use two trolley jacks and under the lower control arms on the front and these are cast and rather strong...

is this the crossmember?? and this diagram is of the r32 gtst, i couldnt find the r33 one.

Yes thats the crossmember....it's in the same place on the R33.

If you want to raise the front of the car you need the jack in the middle of the crossmember at about the centre line of the car. A little trial and error is involved. the car doesn't weigh exactly the same either side of the centreline so it will come up one side lower than the other. Lower the jack and move it an inch or so towards the low side. Repeat the moves until it comes up nice and even.

  • 3 weeks later...

Heres some pics which may help you on where to jack and place stands under the car.

I always jack up on one tow point on the front, then place a stand under the other to get enough height for the jack to get under the cross member. Then simply jack up on crossmember and place stands underneath cross member.

Hope it helps

Frank!

  • 2 months later...

well only if you don't give a **** about the structural integrity of the car.. if I was buying a car its one of the first places i look, to check to see there is no obvious chasis bends. If all the sills etc were bent to shit I sure as hell wouldn't be buying it.

and any workshop that i know was doing that I wouldn't be taking my car to anymore either.

  predator said:
well only if you don't give a **** about the structural integrity of the car.. if I was buying a car its one of the first places i look, to check to see there is no obvious chasis bends. If all the sills etc were bent to shit I sure as hell wouldn't be buying it.

and any workshop that i know was doing that I wouldn't be taking my car to anymore either.

Damn straight!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 weeks ago $240 cash. 200-300 per wheel is wild for sandblasting and can't see a wheel costing more then $100 per wheel to powder coat.    
    • Yeah this confirms what I was thinking. Volks are worth a crap load more than my M Sport 17s and 2500 is nuts!  240 is crazy cheap, was this 20 years ago? I have a fairly good air compressor so I'm tempted to get an eBay sand blaster. 
    • I got a quote to restore a set of Volk racing gtc wheels at a wheel restoration shop which involved repainting the centres fixing some small gutter rash and repolishing them and the quote was $2.5k I ended up getting them sandblasted and powdercoated for $240  
    • Nismo 300km/h speedo for R33 gtst in GTR cluster.
    • Has anybody had their wheels refurbished? I reckon it's likely bloody expensive. Even a sand blasting quote for my 17s was 200-300 per wheel! The E39 wheels are basic BMW M Sport (or M Tech at the time.) they have slight rash and some have signs of bad repair in the past on the lips. The main issue is that they've become really off coloured.  I think it will be too much as this is definitely (supposed to be) a budget resto. I've been looking at others for sale but they all have some minor damage and colour issues.  In the end I think I'll just need to sand blast them myself and do a respray.  
×
×
  • Create New...