Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jack at the rear use the diff,

at the front the crossmember as it is one of the stronger points, otherwise use two trolley jacks and under the lower control arms on the front and these are cast and rather strong...

but do NOT put the jack anywhere near the steering rack, sway bar, sump or gear box as the result may cost more than an arm and a leg...

To be quite honest I would use the jack and then place axle stands underneath for more even distribution, remember use the right tool for the right job.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

a tyre shop jacked my r33 up on the front sills. It popped both my front guards out and flattened the ride with the jacking point marks in it. I didnt notice it until a few days later so they wouldnt fix it. I have since noticed alot of skylines with the same, bottom of the front guard popped out slightly.

  • 3 months later...

If you are jacking your car up on a completely flat surface (garage concrete floor) your car isn't going to move anywhere if you have wood/bricks infront & behind the other 3 wheels.

I just use the factory/standard jack points (which of course are damaged).

I also have to drive the front wheels up onto some 4x2 because of my sideskirts being too low.

I use the factory jacking point in the sills to jack up the car, a piece of 6"x4"x2" hardwood with a slot cut in the top (3/4" deep 1/2" wide across the top face) goes between the jacking point and the trolley jack. Zero damage as the load is taken the same as the factory scissor jack.

at the front the crossmember as it is one of the stronger points, otherwise use two trolley jacks and under the lower control arms on the front and these are cast and rather strong...

is this the crossmember?? and this diagram is of the r32 gtst, i couldnt find the r33 one.

Yes thats the crossmember....it's in the same place on the R33.

If you want to raise the front of the car you need the jack in the middle of the crossmember at about the centre line of the car. A little trial and error is involved. the car doesn't weigh exactly the same either side of the centreline so it will come up one side lower than the other. Lower the jack and move it an inch or so towards the low side. Repeat the moves until it comes up nice and even.

  • 3 weeks later...

Heres some pics which may help you on where to jack and place stands under the car.

I always jack up on one tow point on the front, then place a stand under the other to get enough height for the jack to get under the cross member. Then simply jack up on crossmember and place stands underneath cross member.

Hope it helps

Frank!

  • 2 months later...

well only if you don't give a **** about the structural integrity of the car.. if I was buying a car its one of the first places i look, to check to see there is no obvious chasis bends. If all the sills etc were bent to shit I sure as hell wouldn't be buying it.

and any workshop that i know was doing that I wouldn't be taking my car to anymore either.

well only if you don't give a **** about the structural integrity of the car.. if I was buying a car its one of the first places i look, to check to see there is no obvious chasis bends. If all the sills etc were bent to shit I sure as hell wouldn't be buying it.

and any workshop that i know was doing that I wouldn't be taking my car to anymore either.

Damn straight!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...