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supra ,

sure yhe book might tell you to put your stands on the sill but if you look closer it tells you to use a special tool ( lm4519-0000) i think you'll find thats some rubber block that fits on the sill so you dont bend it . if its not a rubber block you'll find its a special stand like the jack that comes with the car that fits inside the sill , if you got that thats cool but with normal stands i put them uder the rail or near where the suspension mount is at the rear , i never put a stand on the sill , my sills are still straight .

ok, i've got advice for all of you. I work in a workshop, and this is the one post to answer them all. As i have been through a lot of this before, i can tell you the dos and don'ts.

Do not get cheap jacks. I started off with a jack from supercheap rated at 1850 kg. That was the 3rd smallest one (smallest was 1400kg). Everyone would think to themselves, oh yeah, i'm only lifting up half the car, the whole car only weighs 1400 kg. Wrong, those jacks are very flimsy and don't lift the car very high. When using it, i had a very bad feeling, as if the jack was going to break any moment. I continued, and when i reached the max height, it was not even high enough to put stands under. That jack was $85

Bargain buy. At supercheap atm, you can get a 2500kg jack for $150, absolute bargain. I work in a workshop and use so called high quality jacks, and i trust the one from supercheap. I have had many scraping problems with the front bar, so i've put my coilovers to stock height, and i find that i still cannot get any trolley jack under to the crossmember, even a slim one from work. Even when lowered, I was able to get the jack under the car by driving onto one 2x4. EASY. This jack is the same size and high quality build as those monster jacks.

JACKING

I've been reading the posts by you guys, and i've noticed that a lot of you seem to have confused the chassis rails with the sills. All this talk about ruining the structural integrity of your car. Sorry, but wrong. The sills, are the desinated jacking spot. That little metal flap on the sill that gets bent does not help structural integrity. Feel it, it's so flimsy. That gets bent, but the sill does not. The chassis rail is further in, and it does get bent, and i would not advice you to jack from there.

The sills are the designated jacking position for the car, and can easily handle being jacked, as they do not get bent by a standard jack. It's just that little metal flap, which does nothing anyways. The recommended jacking position for a trolley jack is the rear diff, and the front cross member. However, as the sills can handle it, and are easier to reach, i find them quite fine. I've probably jacked it 100 times, and it has not bent, just that little flap.

Hope this has helped you guys to close this thread for good.

yeah no brand on this jack, it is alloy.

Low height is 90mm, raised is 395mm, handle 1000mm, length is 550mm (important since not just the saddle but a lot of the jack has to get under the car too....

Was advertised in Auto Action last week, email of seller is [email protected]

I haven't seen one in the flesh yet but I've been looking for a decent race style jack at a good price for ages.

  • 2 years later...

I just jacked up the front of the car using the suspension cross member and I placed the stands on the inner chassis rail. I just read this post and it says to place the stands on the outer sill. It didn't seem to bend the chassis rail or anything, can I continue using this as the stand points because to me it looked fine?

But now I have to jack up the rear and the chassis rail seems very thin at the back. Other than the sill can someone draw on the picture where I can place the stands on the rear suspension component? Otherwise I will try to cut out a piece of wood with a slot to place on the factory jacking points.

Thankyou

post-3291-1161862817.jpg

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