Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls.

R33, exhaust, pod. no other mods.

I noticed recently that the my stock boost doesnt seem to jump up a couple of psi after 4500rpm.

It used to go from 6-7psi (low) to 8-9psi (after~4.5k).

Today and yesterday i noticed it sitting on about 7psi the whole way to 6k.

Even though the car is warmed up and has done at least 2-3km by the time i tried this, is the ecu perhaps holding back till the car is alot warmer? could that be it?

Also, a while ago i tried the high boost mod, by earthing the solenoid. it freaked out, spiked to 14psi, still dunno why, but i'm sure it was all good after i put it back to standard. Could that be the cause.

Will a bleed valve set to desired boost (9psi) resolve this problem?

Any thoughts, or insight appreciated.

I'd say your solenoid isn't working correctly..

Hence it's sitting on 7psi.. and not 8/9psi..

Easier just to get a bleed valve for $30

ECU won't give a hoot whether your car is cold or warm.. it just triggers - >4,500 - open solenoid..

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

Edited by Links
ECU won't give a hoot whether your car is cold or warm.. it just triggers - >4,500 - open solenoid..

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

i will try that. cheers.

i thought the ecu did give a hoot. i think it's the same on the Z32 300's. i may be mistaken.

But the R33 stock solanoid only gives you 7psi above 4500.

5psi under that.

Anyway, definately get that manual one off the SAU guy. It's tops!

yeah i've already bought one, just got it, not fitted yet.

5psi then 7psi. but with exhaust and pod, turbo breathes better, and gains ~2psi on stock boost. hence 7 to 9.

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

do i need the engine running to try this, or just ignition on?

will give it a shot tomoro.

i grounded the solenoid, and i can clearly hear it clicking. so i assume it must be working.

i've had no time, or space(traffic) to give it a decent run and check psi +2.

will let u know how it goes.

when i first got my car (it was stock as a rock) and it wouldn't go above 5psi.... for the first day or 2. then i read about the solenoid and i hooked it up to a battery (had a spare one, didnt do the highmode mod) just to see if it clicked over. it did then after that it would go straight to 7psi on the gauge, but it did feel like it got extra power at 4500rpm.

but i run one of the turbotech controllers. they are much better than the turbosmart one i have. it (the turbosmart) holds boost and keeps the wastegate open on gearchanges so when you grab the next gear the boost goes to 0 then slowly climbs. shocked me the first time i did it. boosted up 1st and then second and it worked fine, then grabbed 3rd and at 4000rpm i had just reached 0 boost.

ok, took it for a nice big run on the fwy tonight. reaching 9spi after 4500, no prob.

was very apparent in 2nd and 3rd, less so in 4th, but then i had to back off a bit at that stage, speed limits and all :D

so it looks like the solenoid is ok, maybe grounding it manually to get the thing to switch did the trick.

when i get time, i'll get the turbotech boost controller on and set to 9psi.

did u guys get better spool times, more response, etc etc, after installing the turbotech (compared to the standard solenoid)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...