Jump to content
SAU Community

New Garrett Gt3540 Internal Gate Is Here + Dyno Results


dangerman4
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

At a guess I'd say its cheap and easy to make two round holes and from the outside would look spiffy to some .

I reckon if I was going to make one I'd do something similar to what HKS did with the Pro S style dump pipe . I'd leave the divider in the flange plate and section (cut in half length ways) a smaller section of pipe and weld it to the side of the main outlet pipe . This gate vent path section would need to be fashioned with the nockometre to match the flange plate and probably Mig welded in place . The main turbine vent tube would be a mandrel bend and so would the "halved" wastegate vent pipe .

It would be nice if the flange plate was an exact match for the IW housing inc the divider , if the gasket is close enough it could be used for a template to laser cut provided the ask was for a reasonable quantity not just one or two .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just posting a reply so I can keep track of this thread..very interesting..

If you look up the top of a thread you can click options "track this topic" that way you will still get email notifications without having to reply, pretty handy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would check to see if the Ford versions gasket has the divider section because their housings divider does not rise to the same height as the Garrett Housings . At least thats what my pics show .

Cheers A .

i think it does but cant remember 100%.

it fitted perfectly...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just as a matter of comparison,what was the boost threshold for the GT30 vs the GT35

was the swap worthwhile for street performance,do you notice the 40+ extra KW all through the rev range or do you have to lean on it harder to feel the extra with the GT35

there's no doubt the ET/terminal velocity would be significantly different down the 1/4,but that's not what i'm getting at

which was the most fun as a daily driver?

cheers

ps let me know if/when you are looking at getting rid of your GT30 and how much you are chasing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on a serious auto then the gt35 is very smooth.

on a manual i would say its to big for a daily.

the gt30 felt a lot more agressive thru the mid range, and would well suited the manual skyline.

i will post up all the info on the package that im selling once i get the turbo back from gcg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
×
×
  • Create New...