Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i hav now sort of finished putting a 33 box in my 32 the only problem i have is with the speedo... i got the nissan navara one with the part number off these forums.. but the speedo is reading higher by about 20kms at 100kms. so when i am doing 100kms. the speedo is roughly saying 120kms.. am i suposed to pull the cog off the r33 speedo drive and put it on the navara one? i dont think its right as the r33 cog is a fair bit larger than the one on the navara.. and if i were to put this cog on it would read even higher... i may be wrong tho... any help would b good...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134132-rb25-gearbox-into-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah dude, get photos hey. Someone had them before but I think with all the forum changes over the years they have vanished somewhere. Even if its just a pic of the two cogs together, then changed over.

the only problem is that i think i am going to have to superglue it on or something.. the r33 one has a c clip holding it on and the navara one is either glued or pressed.. i am about do do it now. i will take pics n get back 2 u's...

ok i still havnt changed them yet but i have a new problem... i cant get my reverse lights to work!!!! i have tried changing plugs, everything!!! they either stay on for every gear or are not on at all!!! can some1 please help? what are the 2 sensors that come out of the box for? 1 is obviously for reverse but whats the other??

Edited by lwboosted

Could be similar to mine was, so it's 'reverse' in every gear except reverse itself.. Was yours an auto to begin with by any chance? I had to rig up a negative trigger relay to get mine all working ok, so it reversed the signal.

Out of the box - one is neutral sensor, the other is the reverse.

nah it has always been manual.. just changing to aa 25 box, 1 way i hook it up the light is on in every gear including reverse, but not in neutral, the other way it does not come on at all.... why does it need a neutral switch???

I'm thinking your reverse light might be similar to my boot light. Bear with me here. :O

I wanted a second light in my boot so I slipped a wire onto the positive terminal and the second I just earthed. The light worked. What I didn't realise is that it didn't turn off when I shut the boot.

I don't know what the concept is called but it's something like 'negative switched'. Basically if you use a normal earth the circuit will be complete but the switch is on the negative side of the thing you are powering up rather than the positive which is what I was expecting.

So (here comes the relevance) if you are earthing your reverse switch the wrong way the lights will always be on and if you think the wires are just back to front they will always be off. You need to find the right earth for that switch.

Now I wouldn't have a clue about reverse switches but your story just rang bells for me and my dilemma with my boot light.

ok i will give that a go with the reverse light....

now i have just been spending the last couple of hours changing the cogs on the speedo drive.. and here is what i am up to...

post-24129-1159412332.jpg

this pick shows the two speedo drives together... the r33 and the nissan navara one.. as you can see the r33 cog is considerably larger than the one on the navara...

post-24129-1159412347.jpg

in this pick i have got both the cogs off, the r33 one comes off easilly as it is held on by a c clip, the navara one is very difficult, as you can tell and i just hacked the stupid thing off!! but as you can see it is pressed/moulded on, so u have to cut it off...

post-24129-1159412371.jpg post-24129-1159412388.jpg

here you can see the two shafts together so u can see the difference.. you have to drill out the r33 cog a bit to get it to fit on.. i used a 9.5mm drill bit and it was a bit too small, and i cracked the cog!!!!, so i am now waiting for the superclue to dry and i will drill it out with a 10mm bit. hopefully it wont b too loose. but i will glue it on to be safe.. i will get back to yous when done...

the speedo was accurate when i finished and put it back in and everything.. but just then the speedo stopped working so i think the cog has fallen off in the gearbox... and i dont think i will be able to get it out without pulling it apart... so i was wondering if you guys would know if it is dangerous leaving it in there? will i do damage to the box? it is only plastic so would it just grind up? then i will change the oil in a month or so and it will come out when its a bit smaller?? lol wishful thinking...

the speedo was accurate when i finished and put it back in and everything.. but just then the speedo stopped working so i think the cog has fallen off in the gearbox... and i dont think i will be able to get it out without pulling it apart... so i was wondering if you guys would know if it is dangerous leaving it in there? will i do damage to the box? it is only plastic so would it just grind up? then i will change the oil in a month or so and it will come out when its a bit smaller?? lol wishful thinking...

mines done the same (crappy glue). last time i pulled it out it was still on the end...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...