Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I just did the conversion and yeah, as Simon said, the gearbox crossmember lines straight up to the factory holes. Mine was originally an auto, and I dont know what cross member I'm using... Didn't line up with the RB20 gearbox though. Engine is ~30mm lower and have had no issues with the box fouling on the tunnel or anything like that. :(

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well I just did the conversion and yeah, as Simon said, the gearbox crossmember lines straight up to the factory holes. Mine was originally an auto, and I dont know what cross member I'm using... Didn't line up with the RB20 gearbox though. Engine is ~30mm lower and have had no issues with the box fouling on the tunnel or anything like that. :rofl:

bit off topic but i know u have aftermarket sway bars so u may be able to help. i dropped my motor the same amount as what cubes pdf says and i cant fit an aftermarket swaybar (the sump fouls) how'd u go?

Did you do yours or did shaun lower it?

Looking at yours its definitely sitting lower than mine. :rofl:

As salad said to me.. Grab a bit of plate cut it to shape and space the swaybar chassis mounts down slightly so the aftermarket bar fits.

using the rb20det sump provides more clearance around the sway bar area.

25 shifters are a lot longer then a 20 shifter... i find it quite annoying acctually and i'll prob fit a 20 shifter back in to my car, Too many mis shifts from 2nd to 3rd while drifting on the track... im not THAT retarded but the shifter makes me feel like a doofus every time! lol

Im very surprised you didnt have to reduce the tailshaft length... mine simply would not fit! oh well its in now lol

cant use a rb20 shifter in a 25 box unfort

the balls on the end of the shifter are much bigger on the 25

20 shifter will just float around in it

You sure? Mine sits in there pretty nicely.

I dont think the RB20 sump offers any more clearance for the sump, the swaybar seems to be fouling at the front where the RB30 and RB20 sumps are the same shape.

I will just be spacing the swaybar down to make it fit, shouldn't have to go too much, almost fits (stocker) as it is, and it's pretty low as is!

cept it only has 2 wires...and the r32 speedo is mechanical

I know the 32 speedo is mechanical i was thinking of adapting a 33 speedo into a 32 gauge cluster. Having only 2 wires makes it a magnetic inductance sensor. the 33 clusters only have one signal in which means there is something else between the sensor and cluster, probably a BCM of some sort making it just about impossible to use the sensor and factory speedo.

  • 4 weeks later...

How would one go about hooking up the R33 eletric drive to an APEXi RSM?

See my speedo hasnt worked for a while because the plastic attachment into the back of the speedo has shattered after I put too much glue in it and forced it back on too hard. I would need to do the navara speedo drive bit and get a bit made up for the cable to speedo. Wouldnt it just be easier for me to hook up the R33 speedo drive and use the signal from that to operate a Rev/speed meter???

Anyone know how to get the R33 speedo drive to send a signal???

Thanks

would love to know the location of this speed sensor - attached

one day i will have to try and trace the 2 wires from the rb25 box to the cluster to see if the conversion of the signal is done inside the cluster or externally.

post-5157-1195491079_thumb.jpg

So are you saying its only two wires from the R33 speedo drive that then go into another device and get turned into a single wire that goes to the ecu and speedo?

thats what i was thinking about finding out

the wire 53 speed wire is the one people cut to remove the 180km limiter

so this external box (in the pic) is either the dash cluster or another box in the loom somewhere.

if anyone could get the entire workshop manual for these cars like the one i have for a 180sx which shows every wire and where it is in the car it would be alot easier to work out

  • 2 weeks later...

Getting tail shaft made next week but still waiting on gearbox delivery so can anyone tell me the length from diff to gearbox?

Mine was a manual if it makes a difference.

Thanks,

Daniel

so will the drive send a signal if its just hooked up to 12v and earth?

If it does then I should be able to use that signal for a aftermarket speedo device (apexi RSM or AVC-R)

i tried doing this with mine and it didnt work :P so i sold the rsm and got a navara drive

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This might be true if you live in NZ but I can't see how this could be true for us locals here.  I've found the customer support for Haltech to be absolutely amazing. I've turned up to Haltech and spent entire days with their tech support guys, they've even helped me with wiring dramas that had nothing to do with their products.  They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I can't imagine how my experiences with them could possibly be any better.
    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
×
×
  • Create New...