Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going to purchase some rims for my 95 gts-t and was wondering what would be the best size to maitain performance but still give it that killer look. Was pondering between 18's and 17's and was wondering which one suits it best with no severe side effects like rubbing on turns or when you have more than two people in the car. really wanted the 18's but will get the 17's if the are easier on the ride. Just wanted an idea of rim width, tire selection and to hear some of the experiences people of the forum have with there rim size selection. Oh yea the roads overe here are not that great many places I go will have sort of a bumpy ride as some of the roads are horrible. All opnions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/
Share on other sites

I just got some Advanti Medusa 18's for my car, I had alot of problems finding wheels that would fit over the brakes on my car. As far as I know they are just the standard R33 GTS-t sedan brakes, but alot of wheels I tried would not sit flush due to the calipers. So my advice is to make sure you do a fitment check before you buy wheels, ie. make sure they fit if you're going to buy online.

Oh and on the stock suspension the car rides fine with 235/30/18 tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2490484
Share on other sites

235/30/18 ??? shouldnt you be running 235/40/18 i thought that would throw the everything out to much...

17's are good cheaper rubber and a good overall size... then again 18's do fill the arches a little better...

lol, yeh I made a mistake, I am running 235/40/18. That would make for interesting ride quality though wouldn't it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2490722
Share on other sites

Cool thanks for the input. Yea certain places the roads are a bit bumpy so I'm thinking ill try the 18's and if it doesn't workout get the 17's. Hey no1 said anything about performance whts the performance like on 18's and 17's which one is better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2492236
Share on other sites

You wont notice the difference in performance...technically the 18's will have a larger overall rolling circumfrence which means you will have slightly slower acceleration but a higher top speed. But like i said you probably wont even notice it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2492242
Share on other sites

I have got some 17s on mine..

8 inch fronts, 9 inch rears.. 235s fronts, 255s rear. No scrubbing at all..

If you do get some rims, get some which are light weight. Will make a difference!!

17s-- cheaper maintance than 18s. Price wise that is when it comes to buying some rubber.

18s-- advantage is that it nearly fills up the whole guard. 17s on the rear look to small...

Gdluck..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2492306
Share on other sites

You wont notice the difference in performance...technically the 18's will have a larger overall rolling circumfrence which means you will have slightly slower acceleration but a higher top speed. But like i said you probably wont even notice it.

thats not true. when you go to a larger wheel the tyre profile gets smaller. so there shouldn't be much of a difference in rolling circumfrence.

as for performance, if you were to use the tyres at the drags, the 17's would perform better (get off the line better) as there is more flex in the sidewall. that is why most people use smaller wheels at the drags.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2492417
Share on other sites

Hey here is a pic of my 18"s, they will fit on without spacers too if that is a concern.

post-23114-1158295519.jpg

Nice really loving the skyline the rims are sick. The 18's really do fill it out better that does it im gonna go 18's and see how it works. Keeping the stock rims for that drag strip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2499230
Share on other sites

17's are cheaper for tyres, and if the roads aren't that great, will ride better.

no they arent. my 255s would be cheaper if they were 18s rather than 17s :S

id go 17s as the roads round here are pretty gay too... a mates commo with 18s is a bugger up my road compared to my r33. but its not just wheels, suspension change ride feel too...

Edited by Freddy Kruger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134147-best-rims/#findComment-2501330
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...