Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Some Help

SHADDY

By SHADDY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SHADDY Community Regular

SHADDY

Posted
Posted

COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT. SOME F...WIT MECHANIC HAS F.....KD WITH MY CAR AND NOW THEY CAN'T GET IT TO IDLE UNDER 2000 RPM. THEY TOOK THE INTAKE OFF TO REPLACE ALL OF THE HEATER HOSES AND SINCE THEY HAVE PUT IT BACK TOGETHER THEY CANNOT GET IT TO IDLE ANY LOWER. ANY IDEAS? THESE WANKERS HAVE ALREADY HAD MY CAR FOR OVER 10 DAYS! THANKS. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/
Share on other sites
Mandingo Proficient

Mandingo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds a bit off could you pm me the name of said workshop plz.

Have you got the car now? if you dont get a trailer and go get it and dont pay no money. Are you running standard ecu?

Also did they touch the intake plenum at all?

Might also be AAC vlave or AFM related

Edited by Flipmo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2490332
Share on other sites
SHADDY Community Regular

SHADDY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how does it run Although it is idling high ?

I would guess an air leak in the intake system If they havent tried to adjust anything to cause it.

it's running fine, he was looking for air leaks this afternoon the f...ken dick head, i don't know what they have adjusted if anything. i think he was just trying stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2490398
Share on other sites
The Alchemist Collaborator

The Alchemist

Posted
Posted
it's running fine, he was looking for air leaks this afternoon the f...ken dick head, i don't know what they have adjusted if anything. i think he was just trying stuff.

unplug your idle control solenoid and screw all the way in the course adjustment screw on your ICS and see if the idle drops any, if at all.

If it doesn't chances are the gaskets between the throttle bodies is broken when they removed the plenum or they have left one of the many vacuum control tubes and feeds off altogether or split one of the hoses while removing them etc ect etc. Such a leak bleeds into the common vaccum rail and thus feeds all cylinders and upping the idle as has happened to you.

try that mate..

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2490786
Share on other sites
SHADDY Community Regular

SHADDY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
unplug your idle control solenoid and screw all the way in the course adjustment screw on your ICS and see if the idle drops any, if at all.

If it doesn't chances are the gaskets between the throttle bodies is broken when they removed the plenum or they have left one of the many vacuum control tubes and feeds off altogether or split one of the hoses while removing them etc ect etc. Such a leak bleeds into the common vaccum rail and thus feeds all cylinders and upping the idle as has happened to you.

try that mate..

Mike

thanks heaps for that i will give it go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2490842
Share on other sites
rockabilly Rising Star

rockabilly

Posted
Posted
thanks heaps for that i will give it go.

hi guys. sorry to jump in on this thread but my problem is similar and i wonder if anyone has come across it b4.. my 33gtr has done 1300 miles since i rebuilt it. 600bhp spec. last sat b4 i went on track had it on a dynopack for last minute checking. next day after being on track the idle is at 1500 rpm then after about 30 seconds gradually returns to 1000. phoned the tuner and he said i could have an air leak developed after going on the curcuit, which is silverstone/uk. so i sprayed all the inlet manifold/throttle bodies etc while running with wd40 to see if infact i did have an air leak. nothing not a flutter. so after reading on here about aac valve i took mine off and cleaned it up. but did not plug the lead on. he presto 950 rpm. rev it up and it drops back to idle instantly, now my problem. when i plug the lead on it revs back up again as b4. car runs d-jetro ecu. could it be in the map somewhere? hope you guys can help as here in the uk homebuilds are rare.

spec is

25/30 hks elbows.720, jun 264/272 cams.tomei pump etc. car made 519 at the hubs.. bernie /uk

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2492212
Share on other sites
YLD-CHLD Collaborator

YLD-CHLD

Posted
Posted

Have u tried to screw the adjustment screw on the outside of the aac valve body?

Also i ran into this problem when i rebuilt my engine & found that if i undone the throttle butterfly stops & backed them off 1/2 a turn it idle as normal 900 rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134150-need-some-help/#findComment-2510657
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Pre-empting heat management  1. The Kraken manifold will be ceramic coated 2. Just purchased some peel and stick heat shielding stuff from car builders, I'll cover some of the firewall behind the dump and a little on the cam cover, this will be done prior to installation as I have ample room to get where I need to now before that realestate has more bits in the way, I'm also planning to modify the OEM heat shield to go back on, but that won't happen until after installation so I know where to hack it up, I'll also cover it with some some peel and stick to neaten it up after the hacking 3. As the dump is stainless with a flex joint coating isn't really a option, and wrapping isn't recommended for a stainless dump, so once it is installed I'll grab some shielding from car builders to cover the dump, as it has some stand off, it "shouldn't" cause any issues and it "should" just keep the radiant heat away from " melty engine bay stuff" Not for heat management, but I've grabbed some more black crinkle coat to paint all the shiny intake pipes, I'll pick the pipe work up prior to installation and use the paint booth and big oven at work to cure them, I'll then wrap them with some bubble wrap so they stay nice during installation
    • sammi_d
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Austi Beach Cafe - Sun 23rd Feb 2025

      By sammi_d · Posted

      We're back on, gang - Our yearly pilgrimage south to our favourite cafe for an awesome brekkie! Yes, that's right... we're heading down to Austi Beach Cafe for a breakfast run through the Royal National Park! Before you drool over your phones/keyboards, here are the details: Date: Sunday 23rd February Meet Location: Loftus Oval Carpark, Royal National Park, Sutherland Meet Time: Meet at 7:00am for a 7:30am departure Destination: Austi Beach Cafe, 104 Lawrence Hargrave Drive, Austinmer Map: http://tinyurl.com/saunsw-austicruise  RSVP: If you are planning to sit and have breakfast with us, please let us know, either by posting in the event, or by messaging us direct so we can confirm numbers with the venue. Itinerary: We will meet at Loftus Oval Carpark which has plenty of room and is low car friendly. This is a quick turn into the Royal National Park and some nice roads and scenery. After Stanwell Tops we will turn off and head onto the awesome Sea Cliff Bridge. Following this it is a short trip to Austi Beach Cafe. There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a Motorsport Australia permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU:NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehaviour will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave. Thanks guys and hope to see you there!
    • imonpcp
      a31 chassis pinout/cluster wiring layout

      By imonpcp · Posted

      YO- have been searching and searching for an a31 chassis plug pinout, or someone who knows which wire is for tach.  ceffy was flooded past dash during a hurricane.  having an electrical gremlin appear. tach is wonky reading consistent with a short, and on occasion the right side of my speedo lighting will flicker just for a second then go back to normal.  if no pinout available does anyone know if the tach harness opens or branches anywhere behind the dash? im suspecting a possible root behind the radio as there are more shorts in that area on the accessory loop.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Means something is not set up right, tune/calibration related.  
    • nismo_au
      Sau A.c.t. - What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

      By nismo_au · Posted

      Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below. 
×
×
  • Create New...