Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just a quick question... i recently installed a front mount intercooler onto my car was impressed with how it ran and went back to the aftermarket sidemount i have. I have been told that the sidemount i have is an ARC Sidemount does anyone have any details on these coolers or where you could even buy another one from i cant find information anywhere? The difference between response and generall driveability of the car is so much better with the sidemount ive decided to keep it and see how well it goes when i put the powerfc in that i just bought.

Anyway any information would be good if anyone knows anything.

King Regards,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134297-aftermarket-side-mount/
Share on other sites

have you just tried searching google? what other mods do you have planned (like more boost)? if you are going to be upgrading the turbo down the track then you are best of sticking to the front mount, as when summer comes it will be better for the car to have the colder air from the front mount.

I have a split dump, trust turbo back exhaust, pod ect just usual modifications. Only planning to run around 12psi. No plan to get another turbo anytime soon. I have searched google found nothing.... was just hoping someone could enlighten me on intercooler details.. :)

Was just a just jap front mount. I dont want to put a front mount in if it wont offer much of anything performance wise. If the sidemount is up to the task them im happy to keep it.

yep, the sidemount would definitley be better

i'm not sure about the arc but I have a trust sidemount and it seems to be really good (piccy attached). i will find out for sure on monday when my power fc goes in and gets tuned :rofl:

i am looking at a similar level of modification and power as yourself and am hoping i wont need to go frontmount, as I like my unmolested front bar.

current mods are usual fuel pump, full exhaust, pod, avc-r, fuel pressure reg, as well as also having full custom aluminium cooler piping, just to try to maximise the flow.

are you chasing information on the unit or do you want to buy one?

post-8519-1158213583.jpg

I wonder how these bigger side mounts will do in the heat of summer in comparison to FMIC's.

It might be good now but in summer it might suffer from heat soak, I wonder what the difference is between a FMIC and aftermarket SMIC in this case. Anybody know?

i reckon it will probably be just as good if not better. theoretically the bigger the cooler the MORE suscpetible to heat soak, not less. as the smaller core my get heat soaked quicker, but it can also shed that head much quicker. plus the SMICs are in a nice little duct and have a large amount of air passing through them. the FMIC are often installed poorly and have massive air gaps all around, and not much space behind (and generally and AC core and radiator) so they get poor air flow through the core.

edit: FTR I run a stock GTR front mount on my GTR and have an ARC side mount for the GTST.

i think that your power aspirations are a key factor in SMIC vs FMIC. personally, i am looking at around 200rwkw, with an emphasis on response which i believe will be well within the range of my trust cooler. furthermore, i'm hoping to do that with as little boost as possible, but we shall see :rofl:

digging through the memory archives, SydneyKid did a comparison some time ago where he upgraded his stagea sidemount to an R34 sidemount and was able to generally work out the extra volume and flow requirements for his power goals, and i tried to apply the same formula to my new trust one from the standard one and worked out that assuming at least the same flow rate across the core from old to new, it would be conservatively capable of up to 220rwkw, well within my requirements.

i'm not sure about the arc but I have a trust sidemount and it seems to be really good (piccy attached). i will find out for sure on monday when my power fc goes in and gets tuned :(

are you chasing information on the unit or do you want to buy one?

Id like a bit of information ive already got one i just havnt even been able to find units like these advertised yours looks very similiar to mine. Although it isnt identical.

Beer Baron do you have a pic of the ARC unit you have?

if discussing the significance of the location, i would imagine it would have similar airflow either way. in looking at the primary objectives of an intercooler it is to a) cool the air whilst b) providing as little pressure drop as possible.

for a) a sidemount should comfortably cool pressurised air within a boost range up to around 13-15 psi and for b) as long as the piping is all smooth and the core and end tanks of good quality, will flow well and have equal pressure drop than a similar quality front mount.

the major difference i think is that a front mount (and it's associated piping) have much greater volume which is excellent for large volumes of air eg. lots of boost, but with a fairly mildly modified gts-t, this can be a negative as it will take longer to fill and therefore affect response negatively.

Beer Baron do you have a pic of the ARC unit you have?

none handy, but the ARC coolers I've seen all have a little plaque on them with the car type, and a serial number. plus you can see the inlet side of the tubes are fluted. very nice cores.

www.arcinter.co.jp in case anyone hasn't figured it out yet :(

I cant see anything about sidemounts in there not saying it isnt there but its all in jiberish and isnt coming up properly think i need a language pack or someshit. Thanks for your help mate.

Just as a note, something you might like to think about, intercoolers (aftercoolers) are a restriction. There are coolers which pose little to no restriction and you feel this as more responsive, but because the air just flows straight through them quickly, you don't get much actual cooling. Then you have others which are a big restriction (by design) and slow the air down a lot through them, and the increased time in the cooler means that the air actually drops in temperature far more, but the engine is less responsive because of the restriction. Ideally you want to match the cooler to what you want from the engine.

Not necessarily saying the ARC cooler isn't cooling air as much, just a thought.

Edited by govich

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
×
×
  • Create New...